My dewalt track saw was wandering, after aligning the resharpened stock blade perfectly parallel, it was still binding in thick hardwoods. I’m glad I bought this blade instead of throwing my saw in the ocean, because it cuts better than ever. It’s a bit thicker than the stock blade which is a good thing, made a decent clean cut in 1-1/2” thick sycamore with zero burn marks.

I was searching for a cheap blade for my Makita battery saw when I found this one that fits the Festool. Turns out to be perfect for the job. Not only does the blade cut just fine, but I hooked up the cyclone dust collection / vacuum and didn't have to breathe cement dust. Cutting the fiber cement didn't really do anything bad to the saw like I thought it might. Good blade but even better if you have the stuff to suck up the dust.

Our 1 non-ferrous blade cut the 1" and 3/4" thick aluminum shown in the pictures and finished very strong. Excellent cut quality and durability. Yet to sharpen it.

I've owned the 210 x 52 and 210 x 36 tooth (as well as the 72 tooth non-ferrous) blades since 2016 and find them to be excellent blades for the DIY builder. I work with all sorts of materials, from Miratech, to fir and pine, to oak, to Ipe (hard stuff that), to chocolate Bamboo (harder stuff still), to 1" thick aluminum (with the non-ferrous blade).

I just keep the 52 tooth on my TS75 for most work. Though I'm not doing day in day out production work, I have yet to sharpen it and find that it still makes smooth clean cuts.

I was searching for a cheap blade for my Makita battery saw when I found this one that fits the Festool. Turns out to be perfect for the job. Not only does the blade cut just fine, but I hooked up the cyclone dust collection / vacuum and didn't have to breathe cement dust. Cutting the fiber cement didn't really do anything bad to the saw like I thought it might. Good blade but even better if you have the stuff to suck up the dust.

I was very pleased to find this product being offered on AMAZON. I received the blades very quickly and at a great price. I was concerned about whether the blades would fit and be of good quality. I found out I had not needed to have worried about either account.

I recently purchased a Milwaukee 5 1/2" cordless metal cutting saw. It came with a 5 3/8" Milwaukee blade that sells for $39.99. This blade has actually outlasted the Milwaukee blade that came with the saw and so far has shown no real signs of wear yet. Very satisfied with this purchase although I was able to purchase the saw kit elsewhere for much less.

Never seen a saw with the primary purpose of cutting plastics, but as these become more and more common, I'm glad someone make a proper blade. Cuts well through Ultra-High Molecular Weight Poly(Ethylene) and Poly(Formaldehyde) / Poly(Oxymethanal). As those are two of the most physically impressive thermoplastics, I'm sure it'll cut through everything else just fine. As long as you push the plastic through at a reasonable speed, you'll get a clean edge with no melt deformation.

When I initially purchased this blade I wasn't expecting for it to work as well and last as long as it did given the price. We used it to cut a bunch of 3/16" sheet steel and some stainless steel perforated sheet. It's a bit dulled after this project but still has all it's teeth intact and I feel I got good value and service out of it given the price in comparison to some "big name brands".

Did an excellent job cutting my kitchen countertop to size. After about 40 linear feet, it became noticeably duller. Overall, very plesed I was able to accomplish the job with just my small circular saw. I think it would do equally well for other brand names like Corian.

These Oshlun dado blades are the best that I've ever used. Having more chipper blades on the stacks make for a really nice smooth cut. I really recommend these blades.

This is a great blade. I’m using it on a radial arm saw. Cuts are clean and accurate. The negative hook gives me much greater control when cross cutting with the radial arm saw because the blade isn’t so aggressive while traveling through the wood. When ripping “one by” pieces of pine or plywood I don’t have to push so hard and it allows me to feed the wood through at the optimum rate. It’s much safer than using a blade that’s intended for a table saw.

I have an old 8" table saw, and NOBODY stocks, or even sells- that size, I shopped around to all the hardware and hardware box/super stores, (you know the twi I mean), and even Grainger could not get them!
When I went online, this was the only company that had 8" blades at a decent price, I found a couple others at 2 to 3 times the cost.
It cuts great, enough so that I got a 7.5" blade for my circular saw!

I bought this blade for my Stihl TS 420 block saw. Although I'm sure the manufacturer would call it ill advised to say the least, I've shoved this blade into wood with embedded steel plates and bands, rocks, dirt, you name it. If your segmented concrete blade or disc shouldn't be used to cut it, then this is the answer. If you have a demo saw/block saw, this blade is the necessary third for a complete collection, for with all three there is virtually nothing you can not cut. Be forewarned, this blade is not for the meek. It is not like a chainsaw. It makes a chain and bar seem like kid stuff. Sawzall for pre-school girls. This will grab ahold of and rip apart virtually anything it comes in contact with, and isn't so forgiving like the discs and segmented concrete blades. With that said, it is way easier to use than you might expect. Look closely and you will see the carbide tips are set at a slightly negative angle, so it doesn't rip the saw out of your hands as easily as you might expect. DEFINITELY have the full blade guard properly installed and angled to protect from the shrapnel, and be wearing proper leg, hand and eye protection because this thing removes serious chunks of whatever is unfortunate enough to come in contact with it. I've put alot of miles on mine already, and it is fine. I can tell it isn't as fast as it was new, but for what i've done to it, it is impressive. I highly recommend this blade for commercial applications by qualified operators. You will not be disappointed. I would caution DIY folks to be sure you are competent to safely operate such an aggressive machine and blade combination, and that such an extreme setup is necessary. It is neat, and it is kinda fun, but definitely not a toy.

Quite impressed with the quality, durability, and value of this blade. I only used it to cut up to 2" x 2" square aluminum tubing and am pleased. It still seems to cut fine after dozens of cuts. That said I highly recommend this blade

I was doubtful that a blade costing less than half its competitors could be good. The consistently positive reviews convinced me to try it. This blade is a treat. I used it with a high school robotics team to cut aluminum plate and square section tube with 0.125in wall thickness. We made more than 100 cuts. I kept the blade lubricated (started with a liquid lubricant - messy- and switched to wax) and didn't force it, just let the blade do the work. The cuts were easy, clean, and smooth. I did use good practice to clamp each piece to the miter saw before cutting, not using hands to hold the workpiece. We didn't lose a single tooth and plan to use the same blade in the coming year.

I bought this blade to use in my Harbor Freight 14" chop saw. One feature of this blade was its rated rpm were higher than the Harbor Freight saw spins at. The 10" blade limits the amount of material the saw can cut since it's expecting to have a 14" diameter blade, but for straight cuts it's no problem. for 45° angle cuts it's more limited.

I have made about 40 cuts through 1x1x1/8 and 1¼ x 1¼ x ⅛ box section, some cuts through 2 x 2 x 3/16 angle and 4 x ¼ flat steel, and the blade is still cutting pretty well - and a definite time saver over using a hand hacksaw!!

I used to buy Endurance blades because they lasted the longest. They went up in price so I tried Oshlun. It works just as well or better and lasts as long. I can now buy 2 blades for what I used to spend on one. These types of blades don't last a long time anyway but they will last longer if you keep slow and steady feed rates and don't try to take on too many layers at a time if cutting flat stock. It's easy to chip a tooth on the edges of the steel both starting and finishing a cut. These chips mean that the next tooth in line will be forced to do more work and soon it will fail, and so on.

Yep! This expensive blade cuts through stainless exhaust tube like BUTTER!!! Replaced the garbage cutting blade on my cheapo Harbor Freight chop saw with this bad boy and went from 45 second cuts to 5 second cuts with almost no pressure to cut through!

Nothing like making a cheezy tool work way better than it was ever intended! WIN!!!

This is my first DADO stack, I'm glad I didn't invest money on a larger one because this will easily hit any depth I'll need to make. It also goes wider than my 7941 supports (at 23/32" I can still use the arbor nut, I haven't tried going wider yet)

After some of the comments on other reviews, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the floor it leaves. Seemed extremely flat to me.

My only (minor) complaint is that I really wish the shims had slightly larger holes for the arbor. They are only a little hard to put on, but extremely hard to take off. I preferred to nudge my fence rather than try to go back and add another shim, but this time I wasn't doing a lot of repeated cuts. If I need to set up an exact width I anticipate a bit of annoyance.

This is the best blade I have ever used on my miter saw (Dewalt). This includes the Forrest Woodworker II, various Freud blades, and the original Dewalt. The Forrest cuts very well, as it should for the price, but the edge doesn't last long. I had it sharpened by the factory (about $42), and it cut very well again, but not for long. I use my miter saw for normal woodworking, I don't cut any kind of metals with it. This blade cuts as well and has held it's edge longer than a blade that cost 4 times as much, and it is even cheaper than getting the expensive blade sharpened. I have Oshlun blades on my table saw and radial arm saw as well, they cannot be beaten, especially for the price. I also have their 8" dado set, puts the Freud set to shame for much less expense. I have now ordered extra Oshlun blades for my saws, as I am sure the price will go up when they get more popular.

I had never cut aluminum. After some research I decided for safety reasons it was best to purchase a product designed for the job. Right tool for the job. I cut channelled aluminum 2" X 8" (Bleacher Seat or Plank). I saved the first cut so I could compare to my last cut. I made 90 cuts. The blade held up very well for my purpose. You have to cut slightly slower than you would cut wood, Although, as I neared the final cut, it seemed in my mind that the cutting ability of the blade was getting oh so slightly slower, but that is to be expected. There was no noticeable difference in quality of the 90th cut from the 1st cut. I think the blade will cut plenty more with no problem. There were no lost teeth or blade damage. Probable because aluminum is the product cut here, it leaves a large amount of debris. Probably no more than wood really, but because it is metal, it must seem like more because it won't lay flat on the ground after the cuts. You will want to wear eye, ear and leg protection. I am pleased with this product

I purchased this April 2015 and it's been dead for a while so I just left it on the chop saw and forgot about it. Today I went to change my blade, so I removed the laser guide and replaced the batteries. Sure enough it started working again. I was so impressed it still worked that I came here to write a review about it. In today's throw away culture it's hard to find a product that works just like new 10 years later. I probably used my miter saw at least once a week during that 10-year period, so it's been spinning on my saw for a long time.

Make sure you have the right saw for this type of blade. The blade is rated for max 1800rpm. This is not a standard miter saw blade!

But if you have the right saw (in my case, I used an Evolution Powertools Evo380 metal cutting non-abrasive chop saw) you're wanting to cut some 304-316 stainless for a project or product you're developing or building, have at it! It's been an excellent blade for my use case.

Picture shows cut 1/16" 316 (that's aerospace grade, harder than 304!) stainless steel being handled by bare hands immediately after cutting. Fun!

This is an excellent dado set that produces a true flat bottom dado. The number of chipper blades and shims enable very precise measurements. They are as good as dado sets costing much more.

This is an interesting story. I had an aluminum decorative fence to install in my backyard and went to Lowe's and Home Depot to find a non-ferrous blade. Neither had one in stock, so I turned to their web pages. In both cases, navigating their web pages was so laborious, I gave up. I figured there was no way that Amazon would have the blade, but I gave them a shot anyway. To my surprise, they had it! If I were Lowe's and Home Depot, I'd be very embarrassed.

Anyway, the blade has worked great. I have made over 100 cuts with it so far and it doesn't seem to be getting dull. Not only that, the blade cuts through aluminum cleanly and smoothly like a hot knife through butter. I really couldn't be more satisfied with my purchase.

I upgraded my stock blade on my Bosch Surgeon Axle Glide compound mitre. For trim work, this is fantastic. The cut is smooth and minimal tear out, even on the underside, where most tear out occurs. The finish surface of the cut is so smooth that sanding is almost not needed. One other thing: almost no deflection in the blade. This stiff blade really helps with keeping the cut straight on wide boards.

Since I had to buy one for my obsolete 8" table saw, and loved it, I got one for a 7.5" blade circular saw! It cuts great!
I needed one for an old 8" table saw, and NOBODY stocks, or even sells- that size, I shopped around to all the hardware and hardware box/super stores, (you know the two I mean), and even Grainger could not get them!
When I went online, this was the only company that had 8" blades at a decent price, I found a couple others at 2 to 3 times the cost.
Both sizes are great blades, at a decent cost.

Using this on a Makita demo saw. Had a cheaper(McGills Warehouse) blade with 80 teeth on it. The McGills blade heated up and warped the blade plate while cutting so it wasn't much use. Fewer teeth on this blade and the way the carbide attaches(big shoulder on the plate behind the carbide) will make this blade much more durable and usable. Haven't seen any blade deflection yet but there's no wood sap build up on it yet. Cuts fast, doesn't jump or bounce much(use light pressure with the low tooth count as it cuts very aggressively).

I've had a Festool track saw since around 2004. It's such a great tool that continues to work like new despite the fact that I don't baby it. Given the build quality of the saw, I have little doubt that the festool blades are premium quality and probably stay sharp longer than this cheaper blade. But so far the Oshlun is performing comparably, so no regrets or reservations about having it as a backup when I send the festool blades for sharpening.

This blade does exactly what it says it will do. It cuts a nice straight cut thru aluminum like butter. No kickback at all. One thing it does that's a negative is the chips it creates. They're little flakes that are hard to clean up. I've swept them up even used the shop vac and I still keep finding them. This is not the fault of the blade or saw. This is just how it works but it is something to make note of.

I use this blade on a chop saw to cut wooden timbers imbedded with dirt, sand and occasional metal. I does a very good job. It won't stay sharp forever but I have had it resharpened and it works like new again. The person who sharpened it said I could probably have it sharpened 4 or 5 times more. It does the job I want it to. I don't recommend an inexperienced operator use it in this manner. You really have to know what you are doing to avoid pinching of the blade etc. I actually bought another one to use while the other is being sharpened.

I bought this blade with the intent of using it when I refinish my hardwood floors. I figured a $20 blade would be a lot easier to swallow if I hit something hard while cutting out some of the old damaged boards.

I did some test cuts on 3/4" birch plywood scraps. The cuts were clean and sharp. To be honest, I'm not sure that the festool blade could have done any better. Maybe the Festool blade would outperform this blade on other materials but for sheet goods I would consider them equal.

I'll be ordering a couple more blades. At this price I would be crazy if I didn't.

I've tried various brands of steel cutting blades over the years and feel like this is middle of the pack. It's way better than some out there in that the resulting edge is very clean with no burrs and isn't overly sharp. I made a pancake griddle out of 1/4" plate and didn't even have to sand the cut edge. It cuts 1/4" just fine but not quite as quickly as another brand I used before. But at half the price, I will buy these every time.

Since there aren't many reviews on this blade I figured I'd give it a rating. I bought this to attach to a husqvarna 165rx clearing saw. Having previously used another carbide tipped blade (husqvarna Christmas tree attachment) and after wearing that blade out I was in search of another as rebuilding the blade alone would cost 1.5x the cost of this blade. Sharpen style blades just don't cut it so I figured I'd give this blade a try for what it costs.

I am throughly happy with this blade purchase as it mets my expectations with flying colors. I am mostly using this blade for pasture brush control (hedge, cedar, and locust). Cuts trees like a hot knife easily cutting down a 6" tree, can cut bigger with a back cut but trees get fairly tall with that diameter and could potentially fall towards you without a way to stop it due to having to hold saw. I have not hit any rocks or wire with it yet so I can't tell you how it would hold up to that but I feel like it would. If I happen to hit a rock or wire I'll report back with details if teeth fall off. Eventually I know the blade will get dull, hopefully I will cut enough trees coupled with not having to sharpen it to justify the cost and order another.

There is one thing that I am disappointed with is the blade is manufactured in China. I didn't rate it negatively for this because I feel that if it was a USA made blade it would probably be in the $80 -$100 range.

I would highly recommend this blade for a similar situation as mine. If by rare chance you have a clearing saw with a Christmas tree attachment (used for husqvarna clearing saws and allows use of 12" blade, normally only accepts 10" without attachment) that you want a blade for.

I am using this blade on my chop saw to cut 1" biscuits out of hickory logs (I use them in my BBQ pit). This is an aggressive blade and it cuts through the hickory like it's butter. This is NOT the recommended use for the blade but it is the perfect solution for me. I can see how this blade would work well in a rescue operation - something it's actually designed to be used for.

After ruining countless jigsaw blades cutting aluminum planks for a large porch replacement project, I decided to investigate whether a circular saw approach would be faster and provider cleaner cuts. The porch planks were aluminum extrusions that were one inch thick and 6.5 inches wide. I used this Oshlun blade in a cordless lithium based circular saw from Porter Cable. It worked wonderfully, but must warn the user to wear eye and ear protection. The project moved along at least ten times faster than it would have otherwise.

I have found this dado blade to be excellent. The price was great, ease of use and setting up is far superior to the HF dado blade I returned after one of the shims jammed on the arbor of my Delta uni-saw and damaged the arbor threads on the 2nd use. That cost me $150.00 to for the purchase of a replacement arbor! Many customers complain that the storage box it comes with is not suitable. It is just a cardboard box. When mine arrived the box was broken on three sides. However the dado blades are very well packaged in foam and arrived with no damage. I simply made my own storage box from 1/2" plywood and utilized the foam packaging to safely store the dado blade.

I just received this today and I put it on my 12" miter saw to use the saw as a chop saw. I cut a piece of 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" 6061 aluminum. It cut that piece like it was hot butter. I used the Olsun blade lubricant before I did the cutting. No effort at all.
My next cut will be on a 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" of the same metal. If it cuts the same way, this blade is worth twice the price.

Had mine about 3 years now. Use it all the time in my woodshop. Never had any problems with it. Works smooth, zeros in and keeps zero. I have noticed that occasionally the zero is off by a tiny, tiny bit, say half the width of the needle. I read in the company's description above that accuracy is +/- .001, so when I see it off zero, that tiny bit probably is .001. So mine is as accurate as described. The metal is nothing fancy, but it is smooth and machined well. Everything fits well and works. I am an avid woodworker. I use it for thickness planing, some joint work , measure the depth of a hole or groove, width of a groove, inside measurements, etc... The dial is easy to read and is in fractions, which I use. So no math involved. The fraction marks are in 64th's, you can also easily read between the marks to 128th's. If I cut a joint to 128th's of an inch you know it is a very good day in the shop indeed !!! Realistically if you are looking to buy one for very fine tolerances for fitting metal parts together or building machinery then you might want to go way up in price range. It's great for wood, the wood probably will move a 128th mark on a humid day anyway. I prefer a dial then a digital. I've read that a digital can round a measurement up if it falls between digits, that it uses energy when off, so batteries get used up. A dial lets you see the measurement when between digits or markings, so I know if just one more swipe of the plane will put it where I want it. I don't think you can buy more accuracy at this price range. For working wood I don't know why you would need expensive accuracy as the wood will move fine increments across it's grain overnight, just laying in your shop. Many woodworkers work down to a 32th of an inch in accuracy. So to be able to see a 128th is very close measuring for woodwork.

I got this blade to cut thin aluminum tile trim pieces because it was highly rated. When I got the blade I installed it on my chop saw the way I always install blades; with the labeled side facing out. Tried doing some cutting and the blade worked but wasn't very impressive. Then I looked more closely and noticed the rotation was backwards and I had the blade on backwards. Flipped it around so the labeling didn't show and the blade cut like a dream. It leaves an almost mirror smooth surface on cuts and I could adjust miters by trimming a hair off cuts I had already made. And it wasn't noisy the way some people had said. This blade was well worth it for me.

For the cash this is an unbeatable bargain. I cut what seems like a mile of aluminum U-channel with this blade in my DeWalt compound miter box and it sailed through it. ONE BIG POINT: You must use a lubricant when cutting aluminum or the aluminum will melt and fuse to the carbide tips of ANY blade, quickly destroying it, including this one.

The best, and most practical lubricant I've found is stick wax. You can use Stick-Kut from Relton, Castrol's Wax Stick or Boelube. These types of lubricants are packaged in what look like caulking gun tubes and are applied to the sides and teeth of the blade every twenty cuts or so. You can also use beeswax, paraffin or a candle. If you use these lubricants this blade should last forever.

Another big point is the work MUST be securely held. I made a fixture using De-Sta-Co clamps for my miter box which very securely held the aluminum channel I was cutting which made the entire process safe.

In short a super blade for a super price

I was a little concerned about the brightness after reading several reviews. Ordered anyway. I have LED lights on both sides of my miter saw and the laser showed up just fine. I'm not sure about durability but if I have a problem later I'll add a new review. Hardest part of installation was Loosening the Arbor nut.

Buzzes right through 1/4 mild steel bar. I've made dozens of cuts and I can't detect any dulling. It does make a mess. Really sharp chips widely scattered. I built a quick sled for my cordless saw. Keeps the cut square and really contains the chips. It probably also keeps the tips from catching in the cut and breaking. Hard to believe it's this quick to cut steel with a saw I already have.

I used this dado set just to check out the cut, I can't believe how fine of a cut this set makes. I cut a 1/4" tongue/groove to see the fit. No gaps, spaces and as smooth as glass. Then I cut just cut a whisper off to make a sliding tonque/groove, again, unbelievably smooth. This would make excellent drawer slides. I can't believe that a $150-$300 set could cut any better. A great bargain for $.

Only blades that fit my 5 3/8” fuel steel cutting circular saw from Milwaukee.

I Cut through about 160 1/2” steel rods and a bunch more extruded aluminum even though I shoulda used a non ferrous blade but so impressed I bought all of their brand blades for aluminum, steel and even wood since they’re the only ones that fit my saw; I have the Milwaukee Fuel Metal Cutting Circular Saw, I can only fit 5.5” blades with a 20mm arbor (most blades are 6”+ and only have a 10 mm arbor).

Purchased to use in Wood! Why? The 1" bore.

To explain, we have a 12" "Original Saw Company" Radial arm saw in the shop. The 12" blades we have tend to be deafeningly loud, the outer rim speed is so high.
To combat this, we use 10" blades thus reducing the outer rim speed a good deal. This was easy to do with my old Delta R.A.S. that had the arbor more common in 10" blades ( 5/8" ) .
Since upgrading to the "Original" with the 1" Arbor (proper for 12" blades) I have had a very hard time finding any non custom made 10" blades with 1" arbor,.. until this one.
It makes very clean cross cuts in pine and hard woods. No tear out, super smooth.

And it is Soooooo quiet in the big R.A.S. we can no longer hear it over the dust collection.

Very nicely machined. It moves and holds its position very nicely. Easy to read dial; easy to read numbers. The fractional numbering on the outside of the dial, which makes the fractions easier to see. The decimal scale on the inside of dial is more natural to look at and the smaller size is not a problem to read. Other more expensive fractional calipers I have seen are much harder to read. Very nice for the price.

I bought this blade as a replacement for my Evolution Tools Fury 3 saw. All I can saw is WOW! This blade cuts 10 times better than the blade that ships with the saw. It cuts faster, cleaner, and far smoother. It's better balanced than the original as well. I will never buy another blade from Evolution Power Tools as long as Olshun makes this blade. Buy one and you'll understand. It's easily worth 3x what it sells for.

Purchased to cut aluminum soffit for a residing project. It cut amazingly well and much faster and cleaner than using tin snips. I used a sled on my table saw and the cuts were clean without leaving dangerously sharp edges. I was surprised how clean it was on the thin material. It did bend the ventilation perforations slightly, but that was expected and not enough to cause any issues.

Theses blades are incredible and when used properly work as good as any fine wood chop or miter saw. I bought one and one of my sub contractors, without permission, use it on a job site and bummed it up, so I bought another. No one get's to use it now that is not trained in it's usage.
Still going strong after several jobs and just as clean a cut as the first.

My miter saw is one of my favorite saws. It is so versatile. One thing that I don’t like about it though is it doesn’t have an LED light like some of the newer models do. I tried to find one that works with my saw but there are none. I was watching a woodworking video and the guy doing the video had one of these. So , I decided to buy one.

When I received the package it included the laser guide and three small watch type batteries. When I opened the back of the guide to install the batteries I was pleasantly surprised that batteries were already installed. So the three batteries are extra batteries. That was a nice touch by the manufacturer.

Connect to my saw was very simple. As the blade sounds the laser guide automatically turns on and emits a laser that creates a line on what you are cutting. The cut line matched up perfectly with the laser. One thing I knew ahead of time but not everyone might know before using one of these laser guides is that the saw blade needs to be spinning in order for the guide to work. An LED light always shines and casts a shadow line on the object you are cutting whether the blade is spinning or not. But for this laser guide you need to engage the blade and have it spinning in order for the laser to create a cut line. You can keep the blade high enough and safely out of the way of any adjustments you may need to make to your piece being cut. I usually spin, stop the blade, adjust, spin the blade again and repeat the process if necessary until its is exactly where yo want it to be. I know my saw well enough that I usually put the piece of wood down in the right spot or close to it most of the time and just need to spin the blade once to make some minor adjustments.

I don’t have the money yet to buy a fancier saw with an LED light so until that happens I’m gong to keep using this laser guide as it works well.

I came across this looking for a replacement laser for my 12” kobalt compound sliding miter saw. The laser has sucked on that saw since day 1 and finally took a poop. Bought this to just have some kind of guide to see where I’m cutting/ setting angles and what not. But wow i am super pleased. It is very accurate and marks right on the side of the blade. It is awesome and the best part is there’s no adjusting. The only bad thing, is the laser will only work on the left side of your blade. Or whatever side your blade Mount screw is on. I highly recommend the laser though! And even comes with a whole set of extra batteries. Straight up rip open the package and mount it, then begin cutting!

Love this blade. Bought for the low price and am quite suprised with the quality. I use it mostly for cutting wood and it does a great job. I also like that the blade is thicker and less prone to wobble therefore making better cuts. I will be looking at one for my miter saw (12") and see how that works out.

I have the Makita XSC04Z 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 5-7/8" Metal Cutting Saw. This 5 3/8 blade's cut-depth is more than adequate for my needs. I've been doing 90 and 45-degree cuts (not bevels) through 3 x 3 x 3/8 inch angle iron. So far, about 5 ft of cuts, and the blade is still working fine. This compares very well with the Makita blade that came with my saw - for half the price. I think this Oshlun blade cuts a little faster than the Makita. Definitely recommend.

Great blade for the price. They fit my Fein, dewalt perfectly. Very happy and will purchase them again.

So I "ran over " a steel bench dog with my Festool blade... Boo hoo my bad. There goes $80. Lesson learned, I'll buy a replacement. Here's an alternative... Hmm $24 for a similar tooth blade? Why not give it a try? Well glad I did! Great cut in 12mm birch plywood. Nary a scratch on the edge and splinter free--just like the $80 Festool blade! Now to stay away from those bench dogs... HIGHLY RECOMMENDED BLADE!

I bought this only intending to cut sheet metal, which it does wonderfully well on my Dewalt track saw. I needed to cut a piece of 1/4" plate and was preparing to use my plasma cutter, but thought I'd give the track saw with Oshlun metal cutting blade a try. It worked! Had a go slow, but gave a nice clean cut, with a much better finish than what I'd get from the plasma cutter.

Great price and seem to last as long as the $8 ea ones from Home Depot and Lowes. Using these on a Porter Cable recip tool.

In addition to cutting sheet plastics, this blade cuts styrofoam sheets, leaving smooth edges and minimal "saw dust". I cut 1-inch and 2-inch thick sheets of styrofoam with excellent results. If you want to cut styrofoam with straight line rips, miters, etc. and have a table saw, this blade is the ticket.

I have been using these blades for several years as an economical alternative to Festool branded blades and I believe they may in fact be the same blade! Performance wise there is no difference at all. Would 100% recommend them to all serious woodworkers and DIY as well.

I used this blade to cut 1/4" diamond plate. I had about eighty feet in cuts to make. At first the blade cut the metal like butter and the finish edge on the cut was smooth. The finish edge began to deteriorate with use and after cutting about sixty feet of material the cuts began to become very difficult. I tried cleaning off a buildup of aluminum on the teeth but this didn't help and I considered the blade to be worn out. I then lubricated my cuts with cutting oil and I was amazed. The blade began to cut better than my very first dry cut and the finish edge was very smooth. I wish I had lubricated all of my cuts. It would have extended the life of the blade considerably. Be careful and use eye protection because aluminum chips will be flying. I used goggles to ensure that a chip didn't get up behind my safety glasses.

They have performed well when cutting very hard alloy roofing sheets, however, they do not last long on hard alloy. On soft metal I would expect them to last much longer.

I have had an old Makita Beam saw for years and years....this is the best blade I have used....Now it is also the first carbide tipped blade, but it sure works well. I am sawing PT fir lumber for retaining wall lagging; lots of it.....I am happy.

This dado set was on my Christmas list - and Santa delivered! I researched quite a bit and narrowed it down the the entry level Orange, Freud, and the Oshlun. The Oshlun won out primarily due to the low price point. Many woodworking forums indicated the quality was comparable to the more costly competition. I'm not a tool snob and don't really care if my tools are made in Asia, Germany, or on the moon, as long as they last and function as intended. I've used the blade several times now, cutting 3/4 slots with and against the grain in softwood. So far I'm impressed. I haven't used the competition, so I can't comment on how it compares. I have a large saw with a powerful 240v motor, so I can't comment on how practical this dado would be in a small table saw.

Pros: High tooth count, decent manual, smooth cut, flat bottom (see note about edge scoring) and big chippers

Con: Box - many dados come in a box that doubles as a storage case, not this one. The cardboard and foam is adequate for shipping, but not suitable for storing.

Would I recommend this to a friend? Yes

Note: All dados claim to leave a flat bottom. That does not mean that the entire bottom of the cut is actually flat. It does mean that the bottom will be flat except for a fine score at each edge of the cut. Each edge of the cut will leave a very fine score line to minimize tear out. If the cut is just one pass, the bottom looks perfectly flat, the score lines are quite a non-issue and difficult to see. However, if used in multiple passes to remove larger amounts of material, such as in making tenons or larger slots, the outside edges of each cut will leave a fine line that is easily seen. Don't confuse "flat bottom" advertising to indicate a true flat bottom and smooth cut. A truly flat bottom cut would likely come with a bit of tear out. If you absolutely must have a true flat bottom, stick to a router.

With all those teeth is makes very smooth cuts. I'm working with red oak at the moment and this blade is doing exactly what I wanted it to do. The cross cuts are very good and I am very satisfied with the results. I've only had it for a couple weeks and so far it's not lost any teeth yet but I'll be keeping an eye on it.

Theses blades are incredible and when used properly work as good as any fine wood chop or miter saw. I bought one and one of my sub contractors, without permission, use it on a job site and bummed it up, so I bought another. No one get's to use it now that is not trained in it's usage.
Still going strong after several jobs and just as clean a cut as the first.

This blade was chosen for the lower price, the arbor hole size, and the non ferrous cutting attribute. I was skeptical about quality but willing to chance it. It turns out to be a perfect fit for the Kapex, runs without wobble and cuts oak crown molding cleanly. It hasn't been used to cut aluminum, but should have no trouble since previous carbide blades I've used did it without dulling much.

I installed this blade in my Milwaukee abrasive chop saw. I carefully looked at the blade speed and determined this would match up. This blade makes perfect, clean cuts in extruded aluminum (80/20 type material). The only drawback i see when using this in an abrasive saw is the time to get the blade up to speed and slow down after cuts. Be careful. Use plenty of blade lubricant as well.

Other blade replacements I have found have a kerf to thin to clear the Dewalt tracksaw's riving knife. This Oshlun blade's kerf is wide enough to clear the knife and the resulting cut is excellent. It could use a bit more rake (tooth angle) to make the cut a bit easier, but overal this blade is a good replacement.

I bought this to cut up left over Ipe decking. That stuff is harder than the hub of hell. I am very sure on softwood even 20 years Doug fir it would cut like butter. The Ipe is too dense and the blade need more teeth to cut quickly.

Have done a lot of wood working projects over the years. Have done carpentry on houses. Have done fiberglass work for boats. This was my first foray into Aluminum/Metal cutting. Purchased a 16' X 16' Mechanical Pergola kit for my home and needed to trim the beams, louvers, posts for the install. Purchased a 12" Compound Miter saw from Northern tool and upgraded the blade to this 120tooth metal cutting blade and OMG it was good! Cut 1000lbs of aluminum and it was cutting just as good on the last cut as the first cut. Well worth the money for the quality of the cutting. Beware though cutting metal is nothing like cutting wood! Clamp everything and be sure to keep the items you R cutting firm otherwise you'll get into trouble. I quickly learned as several items kicked and I broke a 2 teeth from this blade but for the rest of the project it kept cutting like they were not even missing.

I use this in a small mitre saw and use it to cut mild steel. It cuts 1" x 1" mild steel bars very cleanly without all the sparks and burning that an abrasive wheel produces. If your mitre or cutoff saw is set correctly it cuts clean and straight.

Just remember to take the cut slow. Make contact with the metal slowly and don't use too much pressure feeding the saw into the cut. If you abuse the blade you might wear it out prematurely.

Bosch CM10GD dual-bevel miter saw owner. If you purchase it on AMZ you can get the preinstalled laser guide for $80 more or without. I chose without, and after a year figured I'd spend the $20 on the separate module. This thing is great.

How to install: Seriously takes longer to write it up than do it. Unscrew two screws on the blade guard, unscrew (CLOCKWISE) main blade screw, put on laser, screw back in (COUNTERCLOCKWISE to tighten!) and replace blade guard screws.

MAYBE it took me all of 15 seconds. Maybe.

The laser line is exactly to the left of the kerf. The saw blade is exactly to the right of that line. If you're a half-blind half-fingered woodworker, position the line so it's just left of your offcut... and cut.

Why did I go a year without buying this... do yourself or your loved woodworker one a favor and get one of these. This was easier to install than any of the DIY projects i've done in ten years. I could gush for another hour.

This review is for the Oshlun 10" 80 tooth fine finishing blade.

I've been purchasing Oshlun blades for the past year or two without complaint so far. This blade cuts nicely when your saw is properly tuned. Another reviewer indicates that they got blade markings, where that would ultimately be a function of a saw not correctly tuned. The runout on this blade isn't bad with a maximum runout of 0.006" and an average of 0.003" which provides glue ready cuts. Ideal blade runout is 0.005" or less.

The alternating top bevel grind on the teeth works excellent with natural woods and veneered plywood. The teeth are very sharp and the blade arrived with very little machine oil present, packed in a lightly padded cardboard retail package. You should consider seek a triple chip grind blade for heavy cutting of MDF and plastics.

The saw kerf is dead on 0.126" and has well-grounded copper plugged expansion slots, making the saw blade very quiet and smooth when running. Even though this blade has a positive hook angle, I wouldn't hesitate using it in a table saw, radial arm saw, or miter saw. Just please take the time to tune your saw before you rip into some wood and life will be good.

I bought the WEN track saw and was fairly impressed overall. The stock blade was horrible. I swapped it with this blade and man what a difference. I broke down a sheet of 3/4" birch and the cuts were very smooth with very little splintering. Very happy with this purchase.

I've bought these in the past and they perform well at a fraction of Fein's price. That said, they're not metal cutting like the Feins but they do a good job on wood.

I was extremely skeptical about using my Festool track saw to cut aluminum sheets. I was afraid aluminum would somehow wreck the saw and the track. I was wrong it works great. Perfectly straight cuts with very little burring. It did no damage to my saw or track, not even to the sacrificial nylon strip on the track. I used this blade to cut up two 4X10 sheets of .125" aluminum without a problem. I did not notice a decrease in performance at any point and the blade still appears to be razor sharp. Although I cannot compare it directly to Festool's version my opinion is that it would probably hold hold up just as well while at a fraction of the price.

I have no idea why anyone would pay more than you would pay for this set. I had this exact set for years, it cuts very smooth bottom dados. I really like the full size chippers, and I’ve always been able to get the exact width that I need. I really don’t know why anyone would pay $100 more or $150 more just to cut smooth dados, I’m not thinking that the carbide tip blades in the $250 sets are going to last one minute longer than the carbide tips in this set. Due to circumstances beyond my control, I had to buy a new set, I did look around before purchasing this brand, and found no reason to buy anything different. Get it and you’ll be happy with it.

I bought this for my Evolution R210 CMS saw. I only use this saw for cutting metal. Used this blade to make some cuts in mild steel. It cuts the steel like butter with very few sparks. It's much better the Eolutions original blade. I can recommend this blade for sure. Due to shipping and import taxes this blade is twice it's original price but still cheaper then an Evolution Steel blade (blue series).

Oshlun makes the best saw blades I’ve ever used!!! I use this 60 tooth on my miter saw and get super clean cuts in all kinds of wood! I have an Oshlun 50 tooth blade in my table saw for general cutting work and it handles everything just fine!! Even hen I cut plywood I don’t get much chip out.

Listen up guys. I was looking for a blade that would cut aluminum profiles and work on a Dewalt chop saw running at 2800RPM so I emailed the manufacturer and got an immediate positive reply about this blade. LOOK NO FURTHER. This blade cuts aluminium clean and fast. No Burrs.
Buy this with your eyes closed but make sure they are open when using it.

I bought these to use on my Mafell track saw when I was building my home and had a lot of richlite cladding and shelves to cut. That material is very hard on blades and after going through several Mafell blades I figured I could try these as they are much less expensive. They worked very well… durability was the same as Mafell. The kerf is a bit bigger which means I have to replace my rubber edge strip on my tracks when I go back to the Mafell blades. I haven’t tried these with wood so I can’t saw how clean they cut (Mafell blade leaves glass like finish). Anyway they are very good blades for the money.

Great blade regardless of it's low price. For several years I have used these in the production cutting of large aluminum extrusions.
On a 12" combination sliding saw, and using " Relton A9" cutting oil, I make steady slow cuts never overheating the material.
Take care of this blade it will cut cleanly and last as long as blades a 4x the money.

I was hesitant to buy this blade since there were no reviews to vouch for its quality.I am a professional trim carpenter and needed a blade that could last and cut cleanly.I decided to take a chance rather than spend three times more $ on the festool brand or one of the other alternatives out there.I have been extremely impressed with this blade and have found the blade indistinguishable from the festool in use and in long life between sharpenings.I am buying a couple more since I like to have several blades on hand at all times.

I bought this blade because of the you tube “project farm” review (Best review channel). Understand only rated for ~1500rpm but installed on chop saw at 3300rpm and cut Aluminum, Raw Hide (Dog), PVC, and wood. Too much risk to cut anything harder but no tooth chips yet. Please take care, where leather wielding apron, face/neck shield, heavy jeans… a carbide tooth coming off at that speed can ‘hurt’ 🙂