Oshlun Professional Grade Saw Blades

I was skeptical about this laser especially when it arrived and I seen it was used with the package cut open and taped back together.
And I seen the other reviews about it being too thick and having to use washers to space out the guide. Witch I did not have to do.
I didn't have to modify anything at all. Just removed the stock washer/spacer that goes against the blade and put the laser in its place. The laser is thicker though by about a 1/8" at the most and closer to a 16th but it did not interfere with anything on my 12" double bevel saw, DWS779
If the speed of the saw drops as in cutting through something thick the laser starts to cut out from not spinning fast enough but your already past the point of needing it by that time
The thing I was interested in the most was how it lined up with the actual cut line but it does perfectly as it lines up exactly where it cuts to the point that after the cut it barely can be seen on the board again and goes down in the cut path.
I just wish I would have bought it long ago lol
It came with 3 watch batteries already in it and 3 spares (LR44) and I've only used it a couple days so far so I don't know how long they last yet
So there you go and now you know

I bought this blade to cut a hole in my work bench to install a tail vise. When I built the bench top years ago I foolishly used screws to join the slats together, so I knew it was a minefield. I didn't want to risk ruining my Festool blade, so I figured buying the less-expensive Oshlun blade was worth a shot. The Oshlun blade made a smooth, effortless cut in the wood bench top--almost as smooth as the Festool blade even though it's not advertised as a wood-cutting blade. I did hit a couple of the screws, and except for a few sparks, the blade went through them like they weren't there. I may never have to use this blade again, but this one use was worth the price I paid for it.

I came across this looking for a replacement laser for my 12” kobalt compound sliding miter saw. The laser has sucked on that saw since day 1 and finally took a poop. Bought this to just have some kind of guide to see where I’m cutting/ setting angles and what not. But wow i am super pleased. It is very accurate and marks right on the side of the blade. It is awesome and the best part is there’s no adjusting. The only bad thing, is the laser will only work on the left side of your blade. Or whatever side your blade Mount screw is on. I highly recommend the laser though! And even comes with a whole set of extra batteries. Straight up rip open the package and mount it, then begin cutting!

When I initially purchased this blade I wasn't expecting for it to work as well and last as long as it did given the price. We used it to cut a bunch of 3/16" sheet steel and some stainless steel perforated sheet. It's a bit dulled after this project but still has all it's teeth intact and I feel I got good value and service out of it given the price in comparison to some "big name brands".

I love Festool, I buy their sanding pads for my rotex 150, I think you can't beat their quality products. I have to admit, forking out $125 for a replacement blade from Festool seemed steep. Went for this blade instead and let me tell you, this blade cuts just as good as the festool one, can't tell the difference, go for it. P.S: I cut wood only, not sure, if that's the case for other materials. Really glad I found this on Amazon.

I purchased this to replace my worn-out Irwin in my table saw. For the price, I'm happy with it. It is sharp, doesn't exhibit any vibration, and doesn't ring. I you've used older style solid steel blades, you know what I mean by "ring". One caveat is that if you're looking for a mirror finish cut on your material, or are looking for a blade to run glue joints, I don't think this will be what you're looking for. While the blade is extremely sharp, and tear-out is very very minor to not distant, the cut edge will have a touch of roughness from tooth marks. That said, I've used this with oak, maple, fir, pine, and cabinet-grade plywood with excellent results. When ripping fillers for cabinetry, the quality of the cut is more than acceptable for that type of work. You end up with a tight joint without tear-out or gaps. If the cut will be exposed, you will have to do a little sanding, but that is usually expected anyway. Only the highest quality blades, such a Forrest, will give you a cut that doesn't require very much in the way of hard work. For the price, I'm more than happy with this blade and will most likely purchase more in the future as I need them.

I love Festool, I buy their sanding pads for my rotex 150, I think you can't beat their quality products. I have to admit, forking out $125 for a replacement blade from Festool seemed steep. Went for this blade instead and let me tell you, this blade cuts just as good as the festool one, can't tell the difference, go for it. P.S: I cut wood only, not sure, if that's the case for other materials. Really glad I found this on Amazon.

This is an amazing saw blade for the price! I would suggest this blade to anyone with a cold cut saw. I bought one of these for a project to see how it would do on my Milwaukee Metal Cutting Circular Saw and it did better than the blade that came with the saw. I cut through 60ft. of 1/4 inch thick steel with no problem and the blade still had plenty of life in it. I only had to slow down because the saw itself got to hot to hold.
I bought 3 more of these blades after the first one, if you have a cold cut saw that uses an 8inch blade this is the blade to get. The price is great and the quality is fantastic.
This is defiantly a great buy not just for the money but for the quality.

This is my new favorite demo blade.

I spent a day with this blade. It cuts rough, but for demolition work that doesn't matter. It managed to cut through a few hundred deck screws, and rip up a few sheets of plywood that had been coated in 1/4" thick epoxy and fiberglass. This blade is a beast - after all that it's still perfectly sharp and hasn't taken any damage. Besides being so durable, it's really QUICK cutting.

Prior to using this, I had been doing demo work with a sawzall with demo blades. This thing lasts way longer and cuts much quicker. After putting this in an old circular saw, I barely touched the sawzall.

Love this blade. Bought for the low price and am quite suprised with the quality. I use it mostly for cutting wood and it does a great job. I also like that the blade is thicker and less prone to wobble therefore making better cuts. I will be looking at one for my miter saw (12") and see how that works out.

I used this in my 20v dewalt circular saw for cutting 26ga corrugated galvanized metal roofing (for raised garden beds). I ripped 2 panels at a time, lengthwise down the middle. Then i cut them across the corrugation and it did a beautiful job, and pretty quickly. I had to mount this blade on my saw with the label side in, so make sure you wear some goggles and gloves as the backward-pointing teeth will send sparks flying toward you.

We bought this for removing a breezeway between two buildings. We had to cut walls and the shingled roof, and then removed pieces with an excavator. This made the job pretty easy.
This blade is really heavy, and takes a bit ti spin it in the saw, but once it gets going, will cut through anything without issue. Cutting with it is pretty easy, if you can handle the hefty weight, otherwise it's easy to control.
Only downside was that it was definitely getting dull towards the end of the job. We had it sharpened, but haven't used it since, so we'll see if it's still usable or not.

I bought this blade with the intent of using it when I refinish my hardwood floors. I figured a $20 blade would be a lot easier to swallow if I hit something hard while cutting out some of the old damaged boards.

I did some test cuts on 3/4" birch plywood scraps. The cuts were clean and sharp. To be honest, I'm not sure that the festool blade could have done any better. Maybe the Festool blade would outperform this blade on other materials but for sheet goods I would consider them equal.

I'll be ordering a couple more blades. At this price I would be crazy if I didn't.

I bought this blade because of the you tube “project farm” review (Best review channel). Understand only rated for ~1500rpm but installed on chop saw at 3300rpm and cut Aluminum, Raw Hide (Dog), PVC, and wood. Too much risk to cut anything harder but no tooth chips yet. Please take care, where leather wielding apron, face/neck shield, heavy jeans… a carbide tooth coming off at that speed can ‘hurt’ 🙂

I was hesitant to buy this blade since there were no reviews to vouch for its quality.I am a professional trim carpenter and needed a blade that could last and cut cleanly.I decided to take a chance rather than spend three times more $ on the festool brand or one of the other alternatives out there.I have been extremely impressed with this blade and have found the blade indistinguishable from the festool in use and in long life between sharpenings.I am buying a couple more since I like to have several blades on hand at all times.

Great price and seem to last as long as the $8 ea ones from Home Depot and Lowes. Using these on a Porter Cable recip tool.

This is the best blade I have ever used on my miter saw (Dewalt). This includes the Forrest Woodworker II, various Freud blades, and the original Dewalt. The Forrest cuts very well, as it should for the price, but the edge doesn't last long. I had it sharpened by the factory (about $42), and it cut very well again, but not for long. I use my miter saw for normal woodworking, I don't cut any kind of metals with it. This blade cuts as well and has held it's edge longer than a blade that cost 4 times as much, and it is even cheaper than getting the expensive blade sharpened. I have Oshlun blades on my table saw and radial arm saw as well, they cannot be beaten, especially for the price. I also have their 8" dado set, puts the Freud set to shame for much less expense. I have now ordered extra Oshlun blades for my saws, as I am sure the price will go up when they get more popular.

I have gotten about 50 cuts out of this blade so far. Most of them have been 45 degree cuts in 1x2x3/16" mild steel channel. It is now only starting to spark a bit, but still cutting straight lines.

Had mine about 3 years now. Use it all the time in my woodshop. Never had any problems with it. Works smooth, zeros in and keeps zero. I have noticed that occasionally the zero is off by a tiny, tiny bit, say half the width of the needle. I read in the company's description above that accuracy is +/- .001, so when I see it off zero, that tiny bit probably is .001. So mine is as accurate as described. The metal is nothing fancy, but it is smooth and machined well. Everything fits well and works. I am an avid woodworker. I use it for thickness planing, some joint work , measure the depth of a hole or groove, width of a groove, inside measurements, etc... The dial is easy to read and is in fractions, which I use. So no math involved. The fraction marks are in 64th's, you can also easily read between the marks to 128th's. If I cut a joint to 128th's of an inch you know it is a very good day in the shop indeed !!! Realistically if you are looking to buy one for very fine tolerances for fitting metal parts together or building machinery then you might want to go way up in price range. It's great for wood, the wood probably will move a 128th mark on a humid day anyway. I prefer a dial then a digital. I've read that a digital can round a measurement up if it falls between digits, that it uses energy when off, so batteries get used up. A dial lets you see the measurement when between digits or markings, so I know if just one more swipe of the plane will put it where I want it. I don't think you can buy more accuracy at this price range. For working wood I don't know why you would need expensive accuracy as the wood will move fine increments across it's grain overnight, just laying in your shop. Many woodworkers work down to a 32th of an inch in accuracy. So to be able to see a 128th is very close measuring for woodwork.

Bought the 30 tooth for thicker ferrous metals and 50 tooth for thinner ferrous and both cut great for there specific intention. Bought 5 3/8" size and used on my M18 Milwaukee metal saw. No complaints other then wish they made it in a
5 1/2" or 5 7/8" so that I can fully cut through a bundle of light gauge 1 5/8" studs in one shot as the blade wears down. They do sell the 5 7/8" for thicker ferrous metal but not ideal for light gauge studs because leaves thicker burrs and not as clean cut.

I used this dado set just to check out the cut, I can't believe how fine of a cut this set makes. I cut a 1/4" tongue/groove to see the fit. No gaps, spaces and as smooth as glass. Then I cut just cut a whisper off to make a sliding tonque/groove, again, unbelievably smooth. This would make excellent drawer slides. I can't believe that a $150-$300 set could cut any better. A great bargain for $.

I was searching for a cheap blade for my Makita battery saw when I found this one that fits the Festool. Turns out to be perfect for the job. Not only does the blade cut just fine, but I hooked up the cyclone dust collection / vacuum and didn't have to breathe cement dust. Cutting the fiber cement didn't really do anything bad to the saw like I thought it might. Good blade but even better if you have the stuff to suck up the dust.

I had been delaying this purchase and finally ordered it. There were several chipped teeth on the first set. Absolutely no problems with return and replacement. Customer service the way it should be. Now, the dado set - A lot of teeth and real blades, not lightweight wings and they cut a FLAT dado with no tear out on the bottom or on the sides of the cut. The dado almost looks like it had been polished. Kinda makes me a little mad that I waited so long to make the purchase. I honestly cannot see how any other brand could make a better cut, regardless of the cost. Buy this one. You will not be sorry. For those that are concerned about the box - Exactly how much wood does a box cut? Besides, it gave me a new project.

Inherited a radial arm saw. Read the manual and watched the on line vids and got the hell scared out of me and almost put it to the curb as being far too dangerous to use. Turns out, there are specific blades for these saws which minimize the grab of the blade on the wood but are NOT the same blades for for your chop or table saw, even though at first glance they look the same. I initially balked at paying 4-5 times the price of one of those blades for this "right" one, but factored in how versatile the saw could be and the cost of a trip to the local emergency room should the saw sling back on me....and bought one. Smartest decision ive made all month. With the addition of a bushing on the arbor, the blade fit my radial arm saw great and the cuts are smooth. The negative camber design (what sets them apart from other, regular saw blades used on other saws) is what keeps the blade from being too aggressive- essentually keeping it from biting off more than it can chew, and skating up and over the board, or suddenly yanking the board (and potentionally parts of my body) through when ripping. Used this on plywood, mdf, ash and cedar so far, does what it should, I have my fingers and the blade is still sharp.

I have been using these blades for several years as an economical alternative to Festool branded blades and I believe they may in fact be the same blade! Performance wise there is no difference at all. Would 100% recommend them to all serious woodworkers and DIY as well.

I bought the 50 tooth variety of this accidentally, and while it worked great until it gave up this one is doing the thing I actually needed. The shims are great and makes a nice tight centered fit to my saw with a smaller arbour.

Never seen a saw with the primary purpose of cutting plastics, but as these become more and more common, I'm glad someone make a proper blade. Cuts well through Ultra-High Molecular Weight Poly(Ethylene) and Poly(Formaldehyde) / Poly(Oxymethanal). As those are two of the most physically impressive thermoplastics, I'm sure it'll cut through everything else just fine. As long as you push the plastic through at a reasonable speed, you'll get a clean edge with no melt deformation.

Bought this blade to cut 1/8" thick rectangular tubing for a project I'm making. I got about 50+ cuts on it now and seems to wearing out just a tad now. I could not tell the difference between this blade and the Milwaukee metal blade and this blade is a lot cheaper.

Pros - Cuts anything, Clean cuts, Less Mess than abrasive blade, Durable, Seems to cut faster than abrasive blade, Does not get aluminum stuck between teeth like my aluminum cutting blade (tougher relative of wood blade)
Cons - Expensive but worth the cost for me, Heats metal to Red just like abrasive blade (at high RPM 3,900), Loud - you need hearing protection with any chop saw
I have not been careful with this blade and after 3 years not a single issue. I have cut a lot of 1" stainless bar, 1/4" stainless plate, and many easier materials like aluminum and cuts are clean. I put this blade in a Bosch 3814 14-Inch Abrasive Cut-Off Machine (15 Amps, 3,900 RPM) and I only wish I had a low RPM dry-cut saw to put it on. I really like this blade! Would buy again.

This thing is the tops for me. For under $90, you can get this thing and get WONDERFUL dado cuts for your projects. I use it for box joints often! Make sure to TEST it on some pieces, get good at it a few times. Use the shims to get finer adjustments (because not all saw rulers are created equal). The dado might be set to 5/8" and you move the ruler over 5/8" and you may be 1/32 or 1/16 of an inch too big. Sadly, this can affect your box joints and dadoes. Still, it comes with the shims, so I just put in a few of them to widen the blade a little bit, just barely, and it turns out perfect every time! Once you get it tuned up, this thing will be your friend for life.

Be mindful of how long the arbor is on your table saw...some table saws only have an arbor that is 5/8
or 11/16" long, so all of these blades will not fit on the arbor safely! The box that this thing comes in is awful! I wish it had a nice carrying case made of rubber or plastic.

Still...works great. looks great, easy to learn how to use if you've never done it before, and great if you want to make cuts that are 1/4" thick all the way up to almost an inch thick. I use the 3/4", 5/8", and 1/2" setups ALL the time because those are pretty standard lumber sizes. Just go to the hardware store and get your choice thickness, and you can make all kinds of cool stuff once the blade and wood are the same width. Think about it...BUY THIS THING!

Ok, I received this blade about a week ago and decided to replace the 60T stock blade on my Kapex for a large built in job. This required me to cross cut a LOT of 3/4 and 1/4 oak plywood. This stuff can be made a mess pretty easily with a crappy blade. The 80T did a wonderful job on the ply and solid materials. Almost no tear out/splintering on the ply and the cuts on the solid stock where beautiful. This blade cuts as well as my $150 Tenyru. Time will tell how well/long it stays sharp. Will post more info in a few weeks.

UPDATE.....been using the blade for a couple of weeks. Still sharp. The thing that sets this blade apart, and all good blades, is the ability to cut small amounts from small mouldings and leave them laying on the table rather than sending them off like a missle. This blade has not thrown anything yet! Will be purchasing another one as a back up.

OK, this blade is a Chinese knockoff of the Freud LU80. It has a high atb grind on the teeth, which means it will cut veneered plywood without tearing the veneer. Very handy if you have to cut up a bunch of nice plywood for cabinets, etc. I have owned the Freud LU80 and was very impressed with the quality of the cut. Hi atb teeth are very fragile though (like little knives), and my Freud blade was destroyed when I accidentally cut through a small nail. I thought I'd take a gamble on an inexpensive replacement with the same tooth profile, thinking that it should cut the same. Sure enough it does, and for darn near half the price. I can't distinguish any difference between the cut on this blade and the Freud's. Nice work on Oshlun's part.

BTW, although it doesn't say on the description, this is a full kerf blade.

I'm an industrial electrician that uses M12 for my everyday tools. I bought an M12 Fuel Circular Saw 2530-20 specifically because I wanted to try to cut metal with it. The Milwaukee blade is half the price of the saw, so I wanted to try something less expensive.

This thing cuts like butter! Cable Tray, Strut, DIN rail, 3/8 mild steel plate, you name it. I'm VERY happy. I've done quite a few cuts and it doesn't seem to be slowing down, but I picked up a standby blade for when I finally bite off more than I can chew.

Wear a FACE SHIELD with this thing, she throws shrapnel like no other. I was only wearing safety glasses and a piece of metal bounced off my cheek, hit the glasses and then hit my eyeball. Had to go to the optometrist and everything, I had a burn and needed to take eyedrops for a week, luckily my vision came back.

These blades do the job, last longer than most and are excellent value for the $$$

As a complete novice woodworker, I watched YouTube videos of people doing amazing and easy finger joints with dado stacks. Most said for basic work you don't need to buy a really expensive set.

Well, maybe you don't, but do not go the cheapest set your local store has. Get these instead.

I bought a Skil brand dado stack for 40 bucks at a local store. I made about 5 attempts at notches. I adjusted them, I tried every blade they gave me. All the cuts were horribly uneven, had a lot of blowout in the back, and I was extremely disappointed with them. I uploaded pictures of the best ones.

I then decided to go with suggestions on these reviews and give these a shot, for not much more than my terrible Skil experience. I got them today, tossed them on, and made a cut (I'm just using a miter gauge and a clamp for the test cuts).

I was amazed. It was a lazy cut, I'm not using a sled like I normally would, I'm not even using a zero clearance throat plate. Just a miter gauge. And the cut was near perfect and uniform. I uploaded several pictures.

There is no blowout the back, and in fact I can't even tell which side I cut from just by looking at it.

While I'm sure these aren't as precision as a much much more expensive set, for the relatively cheap price these are very worth it. Get them and don't waste your time with skil.

I bought this finish blade for my 12" Dewalt sliding miter saw. I have purchased some small, 4½" blades for my Rockwell saw. Don't laugh. The little saw is a lifesaver for demo and trimming in tight spaces. That said, I was happy with the construction and quality of those little blades so decided to try this 12", as well as a 10" for my table saw. For the price, I'm really impressed. Super sharp, quiet, and runs true with no vibration that I could specifically attribute to the blade and not the belt drive on the saw. I've used this with oak, pine, fir, poplar, Finnish plywood, and maple with excellent results. The cut is exceptionally smooth and tear-out is usually minimal to nonexistent. The plate is nice and heavy, which I prefer to the more popular thin kerf blades, due to the fact that when you're cutting prefinished hardwood crown in the nested position on your saw, there is very little blade deflection throughout the cut. It can be difficult to get a perfectly tight joint in a hardwood crown with a thin kerf blade as the blade will want to deflect to the side as you move through the cut. When you're working with custom trim that can run $80 to $150 and up per 8' stick, you want the best cut the first time, every time. I had considered other brands like CMT and Freud. Both of which I have a lot of experience using. I don't miss the Teflon coating of the CMT or Freud, but I also don't cut much wood that has a high resin content. The expansion slots are plugged with what I believe is copper. So it doesn't overheat or have that annoying ring that lesser blades can have. I found this to be true with the 10" blade in my table saw as well. If you're looking for an alternative to higher-priced blades, I'd give this one a serious look. I've done approximately 6 or so jobs with this blade and it is still as sharp as when I installed it. If this one has a decent lifespan, I am seriously considering a repeat buy for this one.

Bought this to cut some 8020 stock to size on my saw and it went thru it like a warm knife thru butter. The cut that was left was a nice clean cut and I plan to use it for some more aluminum 8020 that I am using to build a Taig lathe stand for.
Pat

I bought this only intending to cut sheet metal, which it does wonderfully well on my Dewalt track saw. I needed to cut a piece of 1/4" plate and was preparing to use my plasma cutter, but thought I'd give the track saw with Oshlun metal cutting blade a try. It worked! Had a go slow, but gave a nice clean cut, with a much better finish than what I'd get from the plasma cutter.

This blade was chosen for the lower price, the arbor hole size, and the non ferrous cutting attribute. I was skeptical about quality but willing to chance it. It turns out to be a perfect fit for the Kapex, runs without wobble and cuts oak crown molding cleanly. It hasn't been used to cut aluminum, but should have no trouble since previous carbide blades I've used did it without dulling much.

I couldn't be happier with this blade. It has allowed me to cut very small slivers of Avonite on my table saw. Before I had this blade if I tried to cut thin sliver the material would break ruining my piece. Silky smooth cutting…

I installed this blade in my Milwaukee abrasive chop saw. I carefully looked at the blade speed and determined this would match up. This blade makes perfect, clean cuts in extruded aluminum (80/20 type material). The only drawback i see when using this in an abrasive saw is the time to get the blade up to speed and slow down after cuts. Be careful. Use plenty of blade lubricant as well.

I was cutting 1:4 inch fiberglass panels and it performed very well cut as expected and was smooth. Checked after cutting and teeth was sharp

I bought the WEN track saw and was fairly impressed overall. The stock blade was horrible. I swapped it with this blade and man what a difference. I broke down a sheet of 3/4" birch and the cuts were very smooth with very little splintering. Very happy with this purchase.

Other blade replacements I have found have a kerf to thin to clear the Dewalt tracksaw's riving knife. This Oshlun blade's kerf is wide enough to clear the knife and the resulting cut is excellent. It could use a bit more rake (tooth angle) to make the cut a bit easier, but overal this blade is a good replacement.

I use this on a SpeedCut Panel saw for ripping/cross-cutting plywood. I just received the blade and have only used it a few times, but it cuts a VERY clean line with minimal tear-out. Great blade for the money. I'll be interested to see how it continues to perform over time.

I recently purchased the Oshlun LG-M01 Miter and Portable Saw Laser Guide for my miter saw, and I must say that it has been a game-changer for my woodworking projects. This laser guide has significantly improved the accuracy and precision of my cuts, making my work much more efficient and professional-looking.

The installation of the laser guide was straightforward and hassle-free. It fit perfectly on my miter saw and the alignment was easy to adjust to ensure that the laser line was accurate with my saw blade. Once installed, the laser guide provided a clear, bright line that helped me visualize exactly where my cuts would land, resulting in precise and clean cuts every time.

I particularly appreciate the portability of this laser guide. It is compact and lightweight, making it easy to transport and use on different job sites or workstations. The durability of the guide is also impressive, as it has held up well to regular use and has not required any adjustments or maintenance since I installed it.

Overall, the Oshlun LG-M01 Miter and Portable Saw Laser Guide has exceeded my expectations and has become an essential tool in my woodworking arsenal. I highly recommend this laser guide to anyone looking to enhance the accuracy and efficiency of their miter or portable saw cuts. It is a small investment that yields significant improvements in the quality of your work.

I used to buy Endurance blades because they lasted the longest. They went up in price so I tried Oshlun. It works just as well or better and lasts as long. I can now buy 2 blades for what I used to spend on one. These types of blades don't last a long time anyway but they will last longer if you keep slow and steady feed rates and don't try to take on too many layers at a time if cutting flat stock. It's easy to chip a tooth on the edges of the steel both starting and finishing a cut. These chips mean that the next tooth in line will be forced to do more work and soon it will fail, and so on.

After reading the great reviews, I had to get it when I saw it on sale. This is a steal at the sale price and worth every penny at the regular price. It cuts perfect joints with flat bottoms. I should have bought them sooner.

I was a little concerned about the brightness after reading several reviews. Ordered anyway. I have LED lights on both sides of my miter saw and the laser showed up just fine. I'm not sure about durability but if I have a problem later I'll add a new review. Hardest part of installation was Loosening the Arbor nut.

This blade turned my vintage metal cutting saw a beast. Using this blade in the vintage Zip Cut metal cutting saw, I test cut some 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum flats and was thoroughly impressed. The flats were cut with perfect and clean cuts that do not require any follow-up deburring. I then test cut a brass bar - 1" x 1/2" and the results were simply perfect.

I only wish I'd bought this blade sooner.

I have no idea why anyone would pay more than you would pay for this set. I had this exact set for years, it cuts very smooth bottom dados. I really like the full size chippers, and I’ve always been able to get the exact width that I need. I really don’t know why anyone would pay $100 more or $150 more just to cut smooth dados, I’m not thinking that the carbide tip blades in the $250 sets are going to last one minute longer than the carbide tips in this set. Due to circumstances beyond my control, I had to buy a new set, I did look around before purchasing this brand, and found no reason to buy anything different. Get it and you’ll be happy with it.

Product was shipped and delivered promptly after order was placed.

The blade set I received was in the aluminum case with heavy foam support around perimeter and foam sheets in between all blades. I am a weekend hobby woodworker and never used dado blades before the purchase. These work great for me! All the blades and shims in my set came clearly marked and I found it easy to make slight adjustments and dial in the exact width of cut I needed. I have a 15+ yr old JET JWTS series contractor saw and the blades and shims went on and off my factory 5/8" arbor with no problems. I will say that the shims can be a little tricky as they tend to find their way down into the arbor threads so be careful with that. All the blade teeth were complete and sharp (no nicks or quality issues as some other reviewers have cited). I have used once so far making many dado slots in MDF. The cuts were clean with a smooth, flat bottom. As the manufacturer clearly explains in the included literature the outer blade teeth are angled and slightly deeper intentionally to cut a crisp clean edge and bottom with minimal tearout. The minimal bottom corner groove produced by the outer blade teeth is barely noticeable and not a concern for me. Another positive for me was the full chipper blade design. I was down to this set or the similarly priced set from Freud. I had read a few reviews that indicated the partial chipper blades in the Fred set were not so easy to align and hold in place when installing on the arbor. That was a key factor in my choice of the Oshlun set. I have to say that even with the full chipper blades, aligning multiple blades for wider cuts can be tedious, especially if you need to use a few shims. I am very glad I went with the Oshlun in that regard because I understand now how much more difficult it would likely be with partial blades.

Overall I am 100% happy with my purchase and I highly recommend to anyone considering.

We have a need to cut through 1/4 inch thick x 8 inch fiberglass. Previously we've used a band saw which is very tedious and difficult to keep to a straight line. We bought this blade to put in our chop saw. It's worked perfectly. We can slice cleanly through the fiberglass sheet in just a few seconds. Obviously it throws out a whole lot more dust than a band saw so protective masks and good ventilation are important.

Was looking at cut off saws to work some of my 1/8th aluminum stock and while researching came across this 10" non-ferrous blade. The idea of swapping the blade on my miter saw and having the convenience and accuracy of the tool appealed to me so I made the purchase. Couldn't be happier. The saw easily cut through all the aluminum I threw at it and produced exceptionally accurate smooth cuts each time. My miter saw isn't the greatest (Kobalt 10") but with this blade working non-ferrous metals was easy. For anyone doing this for the first time, recommend eye protection. The blade creates very fine metal flakes while working.

Much nicer cut on plywood than the factory blade. Kerf size seems to be exactly the same so the lasers do not need adjustment between this and the Festool blade. I just got it so time will tell about longevity but as far as I can see at this point, paying more than double for the Festool 80t doesn’t seem to be a wise choice.

Can't say what the lifespan of this blade will be, but on our Grizzly 10" table saw this blade cut several 3/4" thick panels of extremely dense plastic being used for public restroom stall partitions. I don't know what type plastic this was, but the stuff is so heavy that it took two of my adult male construction crewmen to move 1 sheet. One man couldn't move one. VERY heavy and dense. This blade cut it like butter. I don't see how you can beat that for the very reasonable price of this blade.

My miter saw is one of my favorite saws. It is so versatile. One thing that I don’t like about it though is it doesn’t have an LED light like some of the newer models do. I tried to find one that works with my saw but there are none. I was watching a woodworking video and the guy doing the video had one of these. So , I decided to buy one.

When I received the package it included the laser guide and three small watch type batteries. When I opened the back of the guide to install the batteries I was pleasantly surprised that batteries were already installed. So the three batteries are extra batteries. That was a nice touch by the manufacturer.

Connect to my saw was very simple. As the blade sounds the laser guide automatically turns on and emits a laser that creates a line on what you are cutting. The cut line matched up perfectly with the laser. One thing I knew ahead of time but not everyone might know before using one of these laser guides is that the saw blade needs to be spinning in order for the guide to work. An LED light always shines and casts a shadow line on the object you are cutting whether the blade is spinning or not. But for this laser guide you need to engage the blade and have it spinning in order for the laser to create a cut line. You can keep the blade high enough and safely out of the way of any adjustments you may need to make to your piece being cut. I usually spin, stop the blade, adjust, spin the blade again and repeat the process if necessary until its is exactly where yo want it to be. I know my saw well enough that I usually put the piece of wood down in the right spot or close to it most of the time and just need to spin the blade once to make some minor adjustments.

I don’t have the money yet to buy a fancier saw with an LED light so until that happens I’m gong to keep using this laser guide as it works well.

Up to this point, I have only used friction and abrasive blades to cut steel. I was skeptical of a blade that looks just like your standard wood blade would work well and could last. But I have been very happy with the speed and smoothness of the cuts, and so far, the blade seems to have remained quite sharp. I've only cut about four 1/2" dia. bolts and a dozen or so 1/2" rebar, so it's still a little early to tell how long it will remain sharp. But it has saved me a lot of time and has kept the metal much cooler than with other blade types. I'm very happy with it so far.

I bought these blades for my TS55. They were $15 each (now $48) and still WAY cheaper then festool blades. I have not noticed any difference in the quality of the cuts. I will buy more if the price comes down again... but for now I have a mini stockpile in the garage.

Purchased to cut aluminum soffit for a residing project. It cut amazingly well and much faster and cleaner than using tin snips. I used a sled on my table saw and the cuts were clean without leaving dangerously sharp edges. I was surprised how clean it was on the thin material. It did bend the ventilation perforations slightly, but that was expected and not enough to cause any issues.

A very good quality substitute at a much better price than the overpriced dremel blades that I was forced to use

I used to buy Endurance blades because they lasted the longest. They went up in price so I tried Oshlun. It works just as well or better and lasts as long. I can now buy 2 blades for what I used to spend on one. These types of blades don't last a long time anyway but they will last longer if you keep slow and steady feed rates and don't try to take on too many layers at a time if cutting flat stock. It's easy to chip a tooth on the edges of the steel both starting and finishing a cut. These chips mean that the next tooth in line will be forced to do more work and soon it will fail, and so on.
Remember, slow and steady.

My husband wanted an 80 tooth blade but as I kept searching for similar items the 120 tooth showed up and was significantly cheaper. I know cheap doesn't mean better but it has worked out great. What used to take 20 minutes of cutting with an 80 tooth blade took 5 minutes with a 120 tooth blade.

I was doubtful that a blade costing less than half its competitors could be good. The consistently positive reviews convinced me to try it. This blade is a treat. I used it with a high school robotics team to cut aluminum plate and square section tube with 0.125in wall thickness. We made more than 100 cuts. I kept the blade lubricated (started with a liquid lubricant - messy- and switched to wax) and didn't force it, just let the blade do the work. The cuts were easy, clean, and smooth. I did use good practice to clamp each piece to the miter saw before cutting, not using hands to hold the workpiece. We didn't lose a single tooth and plan to use the same blade in the coming year.

Never using a stacked dado set before, I relied mostly on the reviews of the people here on Amazon (as I do for most of my purchases). Professional reviews from magazines or websites are nice, but I find that it's better to hear the feedback from actual Average Joe users. That said, it was a difficult decision choosing between the Oshlun and Freud sets, but after reading the reviews, I decided to spend a little less and go for the Oshlun set.

A big thing I keep reading in the reviews is how people feel the supplied box is just god awful and deduct a point or two for it. First off, I didn't spend $65 (6-inch set) for a cardboard box, I spent that much on the product inside. With that being said, and considering what people were saying about the box, I was really expecting something with a thickness less than a cereal box to be what held the dado set, but to my surprise, the box is actually very sturdy. It's also really nice that individual styrofoam cutouts were made to separate the saw blades so that they don't contact each other and chip the carbide tips. I plan on using the box as a long term storage piece for the time being until a time comes when I may need to build a wooden case for the set, but even then I'll use the original foam inserts for extra protection.

Aside from that, the blades cut a very smooth and flat bottom with very little chipout on the ends. The scoring was a little bit deeper than I had thought it would be initially, but it's not enough for me to worry about or deduct stars for. It hasn't done anything to lessen the quality of glue ups in my cuts, but if it had there's still 220 grit sandpaper to smooth it out in a few strokes.

Overall I am very pleased with this set. I've found it incredibly easy to change the setup and the included chart for sizes is really nice as well. I have no regrets about the purchase.

They have performed well when cutting very hard alloy roofing sheets, however, they do not last long on hard alloy. On soft metal I would expect them to last much longer.

Theses blades are incredible and when used properly work as good as any fine wood chop or miter saw. I bought one and one of my sub contractors, without permission, use it on a job site and bummed it up, so I bought another. No one get's to use it now that is not trained in it's usage.
Still going strong after several jobs and just as clean a cut as the first.

I admit...I haven't used this yet. I bought it based on reviews from several woodworking friends and decided on this set rather than cheaper dado versions. I've been a woodworker for decades and used the old wobble dado version by Craftsman and wanted something that was easier to fine tune the width. This has it! The blades are plenty substantial, very heavy, with a variety of thinner spacers to fine tune the dado width. I'm looking forward to using this and can tell it's going to be perfect for my dado needs.

Great blade for the price. They fit my Fein, dewalt perfectly. Very happy and will purchase them again.

I bought these to use on my Mafell track saw when I was building my home and had a lot of richlite cladding and shelves to cut. That material is very hard on blades and after going through several Mafell blades I figured I could try these as they are much less expensive. They worked very well… durability was the same as Mafell. The kerf is a bit bigger which means I have to replace my rubber edge strip on my tracks when I go back to the Mafell blades. I haven’t tried these with wood so I can’t saw how clean they cut (Mafell blade leaves glass like finish). Anyway they are very good blades for the money.

Make sure you have the right saw for this type of blade. The blade is rated for max 1800rpm. This is not a standard miter saw blade!

But if you have the right saw (in my case, I used an Evolution Powertools Evo380 metal cutting non-abrasive chop saw) you're wanting to cut some 304-316 stainless for a project or product you're developing or building, have at it! It's been an excellent blade for my use case.

Picture shows cut 1/16" 316 (that's aerospace grade, harder than 304!) stainless steel being handled by bare hands immediately after cutting. Fun!

I installed this blade in my Milwaukee abrasive chop saw. I carefully looked at the blade speed and determined this would match up. This blade makes perfect, clean cuts in extruded aluminum (80/20 type material). The only drawback i see when using this in an abrasive saw is the time to get the blade up to speed and slow down after cuts. Be careful. Use plenty of blade lubricant as well.

I was looking for a reasonably priced full-kerf blade for my 12" miter saw. I had been having issues with a big-name HATB thin-kerf blade deflecting, causing inaccuracies and in some cases actually grabbing the work. After checking out several alternatives I settled on the Oshlun as a kind of low-cost experiment mainly to see if a thicker blade would solve my problem. This one has a .134" kerf with a thick plate and no noticable runout. The results have been stunning. Besides the fact that the blade seems to cut truer with almost no drag, the cuts are clean both on top and bottom sides! We'll see if that keeps up as the blade wears but I have been delighted so far. My blade has C-3 carbide. I think the blade now comes in C-4, which would probably last longer. One thing to look out for is that the mass of this blade is greater than most, which will cause it to coast longer when shut down or put more strain on your blade brake if you have one. Oshlun has won my loyalty with a great product at a great price.

I bought this blade to install 320 square feet of laminate flooring. I bought nice 12mm laminate with the attached pad, so it was a nice thick laminate. I put this blade on my compound miter saw, and it sliced through the laminate like butter. There was no chipping, no burning, and the blade still seemed sharp even after we were done installing the floor. I saved it in case I want to use it again! I highly recommend this product.

I bought this blade as a replacement for my Evolution Tools Fury 3 saw. All I can saw is WOW! This blade cuts 10 times better than the blade that ships with the saw. It cuts faster, cleaner, and far smoother. It's better balanced than the original as well. I will never buy another blade from Evolution Power Tools as long as Olshun makes this blade. Buy one and you'll understand. It's easily worth 3x what it sells for.

Oshlun makes the best saw blades I’ve ever used!!! I use this 60 tooth on my miter saw and get super clean cuts in all kinds of wood! I have an Oshlun 50 tooth blade in my table saw for general cutting work and it handles everything just fine!! Even hen I cut plywood I don’t get much chip out.

Great blade regardless of it's low price. For several years I have used these in the production cutting of large aluminum extrusions.
On a 12" combination sliding saw, and using " Relton A9" cutting oil, I make steady slow cuts never overheating the material.
Take care of this blade it will cut cleanly and last as long as blades a 4x the money.

My dewalt track saw was wandering, after aligning the resharpened stock blade perfectly parallel, it was still binding in thick hardwoods. I’m glad I bought this blade instead of throwing my saw in the ocean, because it cuts better than ever. It’s a bit thicker than the stock blade which is a good thing, made a decent clean cut in 1-1/2” thick sycamore with zero burn marks.

I came across this looking for a replacement laser for my 12” kobalt compound sliding miter saw. The laser has sucked on that saw since day 1 and finally took a poop. Bought this to just have some kind of guide to see where I’m cutting/ setting angles and what not. But wow i am super pleased. It is very accurate and marks right on the side of the blade. It is awesome and the best part is there’s no adjusting. The only bad thing, is the laser will only work on the left side of your blade. Or whatever side your blade Mount screw is on. I highly recommend the laser though! And even comes with a whole set of extra batteries. Straight up rip open the package and mount it, then begin cutting!

Worked perfect for cutting a corian countertop to remove a dual bowl sink and install a stainless steel one. Worked well bht I could tell by the end of the cut it was tired. Great blade for the purpose and it worked well with the harbor freight Bauer brand 4.5 circular saw to do the job. For Corian it worked perfectly

While i was worried that i would not be satisfied by these less expensive blades, i have been happily surprised. They are a great alternative to spending top dollar for Festool blades that are frankly a bit overpriced. I'd love to see the actual cost compared to mark-up on saw blades. Using a sharp blade saves time, improves quality and pleasure of work imensly. The option of Oshlun blades is a wonderful thing about capitalism, which usually is not so nice. While i might not use them on every job, 90% of the time they do a fine job and I see no difference (besides price) from the Festool blades. Recently I used a not new 48T Oshlun blade while ripping "Hardy Plank" I did a good 10 8 foot rips of the silica concrete board. I think the blade is toast, but even during the final rip it performed more than adaquately. I continue to be impressed and pleased with these blades. I'm lookin forward to see how they sharpen, just for kicks, I'ts probabaly cheaper to toss them, but my sharpening service does a great job, so it will be a worthwhile experiment.

I have turned some very expensive wood into sawdust and regret. Surely with this tool I can do so at a much faster pace. I have never used a stack dado set before but some would-be-wood-worker-guys on YouTube make it look pretty easy, and most of them have their fingers. So how hard can it be? I threw away the instructions ‘cause, who needs those? When you have 3lbs of steel spinning at 6,000 rpm who cares about that? The center hole for the arbor is extremely close tolerance (and for good reason) which made installation and removal a bit challenging but when installed, very very secure. The instructions indicate the blade stack and shims are “under rated” or “under sized” to accommodate the nominal thickness of various woods. So I took them at face value and installed the 3/4” setup. Now, let me be clear, I have NEVER used a dado set before. I took out my calipers and measured the stack installed and tightened. Just short of .75” as promised. So far so good. Used a square to measure cut depth. So far so good. Set up the fence to center the cut at 4” from the desired edge. So far so good. With nervous anticipation green button, on. Soft start up, check. Dust collection, on. All seems to be going to plan. No noises. No vibrations. No issues. Time to put the wood to it! The cut quality was PERFECT! No tear out, no truly discernable ridges in the cut. The chippers made relatively clean cuts the whole distance. My first dado cut was 25” of pure success. The fitment of the dado was near perfect as far as I could tell. I glued it up, threw in a screw or four and all is well. I wiped the blades down as they had plenty of oil to protect them. The shipping/storage box is not pretty but adequate to protect them. Would recommend to anyone needing the occasional dado cut.

The blade performed as well as the Festool blade but at a better price. It's hard to find a saw sharpening company that will do a professional repair and sharpening job at a reasonable price. It's better to purchase a new blade and throw the old blade away.

I used to blade on my Makita SPK6000 Rail saw. It cuts just as good as the Makita blade. I was doing rip and cross cuts in Cherry veneered onto MDF, Cherry Ply and Birch Ply....all cuts were super clean. Only downside is the Makita is a 165mm blade stock...so you loose 2.5mm of cutting depth, not much of a down side when you see this blade is half the cost.

I have a Skil table saw and not a newer model. I have a number of projects that I have wanted to do involving dado cuts. After reviewing many sites, I settled on the Oshlun stacked dado set. There were a number of reviews of Frued with trouble fitting to the arbor, I had no trouble at all with this set. Price line was another element. There are more expensive sets and lesser expensive sets. Not an Earth shattering discovery, but this one just fit my budget. I can't imagine those at twice the price being twice as good.
This set comes with 2 main 8 inch blades, 6 full body 6 tooth chipper blades (4 - 1/8, 1 - 1/16, 1 - 1/32), and an assortment of shims (8) wrapped up in a cardboard carrier. Not a fancy package, but I don't do this for a living so adequate enough for me.
I am a relative novice at this, but I was able to set up two different sized cuts in no time. Did a great job. Cuts were nice, no ridges, a really smooth bottom. A couple of practice cuts and your off and running.
For those who are just looking to get into this, you need a saw with at least 1.5 HP better with 2.0+ HP. You also need a dado inset for your saw. It took me a while to find one for my saw. And it really wasn't advertised for this blade size, but it worked. You can attempt to make your own, but I just wanted to plug and play as soon as possible. Amazon, as always, did a nice job in delivery. A nice set. Can't say much about durability as yet. Time will tell.