I got this to cut damaged engineering wood flooring. The flooring is over concrete so I didn't want to chance the expensive Festool blade. So glad I made the purchase, the cuts were just about perfect. After I was done, I was able to use this to break down plywood sheets. Not as good as the Festool blade, but I can buy 3 of these for the same price.

Bought this blade to cut 1/8" thick rectangular tubing for a project I'm making. I got about 50+ cuts on it now and seems to wearing out just a tad now. I could not tell the difference between this blade and the Milwaukee metal blade and this blade is a lot cheaper.

These blades do the job, last longer than most and are excellent value for the $$$

I have gotten about 50 cuts out of this blade so far. Most of them have been 45 degree cuts in 1x2x3/16" mild steel channel. It is now only starting to spark a bit, but still cutting straight lines.

We bought this for removing a breezeway between two buildings. We had to cut walls and the shingled roof, and then removed pieces with an excavator. This made the job pretty easy.
This blade is really heavy, and takes a bit ti spin it in the saw, but once it gets going, will cut through anything without issue. Cutting with it is pretty easy, if you can handle the hefty weight, otherwise it's easy to control.
Only downside was that it was definitely getting dull towards the end of the job. We had it sharpened, but haven't used it since, so we'll see if it's still usable or not.

My dewalt track saw was wandering, after aligning the resharpened stock blade perfectly parallel, it was still binding in thick hardwoods. I’m glad I bought this blade instead of throwing my saw in the ocean, because it cuts better than ever. It’s a bit thicker than the stock blade which is a good thing, made a decent clean cut in 1-1/2” thick sycamore with zero burn marks.

This thing is the tops for me. For under $90, you can get this thing and get WONDERFUL dado cuts for your projects. I use it for box joints often! Make sure to TEST it on some pieces, get good at it a few times. Use the shims to get finer adjustments (because not all saw rulers are created equal). The dado might be set to 5/8" and you move the ruler over 5/8" and you may be 1/32 or 1/16 of an inch too big. Sadly, this can affect your box joints and dadoes. Still, it comes with the shims, so I just put in a few of them to widen the blade a little bit, just barely, and it turns out perfect every time! Once you get it tuned up, this thing will be your friend for life.

Be mindful of how long the arbor is on your table saw...some table saws only have an arbor that is 5/8
or 11/16" long, so all of these blades will not fit on the arbor safely! The box that this thing comes in is awful! I wish it had a nice carrying case made of rubber or plastic.

Still...works great. looks great, easy to learn how to use if you've never done it before, and great if you want to make cuts that are 1/4" thick all the way up to almost an inch thick. I use the 3/4", 5/8", and 1/2" setups ALL the time because those are pretty standard lumber sizes. Just go to the hardware store and get your choice thickness, and you can make all kinds of cool stuff once the blade and wood are the same width. Think about it...BUY THIS THING!

Purchased this blade to cut some aluminum deck railing. Was afraid that I was going to have to cut with a hacksaw. My buddy recommended an aluminum cutting blade (which I had never heard of) for my compound miter saw. I also bought blade lube/wax as recommended. I was leary about cutting expensive railing this way. This blade cut like butter with smooth, precise cuts. It made the job easy, almost pleasurable. Glad that I used it.

Yep! This expensive blade cuts through stainless exhaust tube like BUTTER!!! Replaced the garbage cutting blade on my cheapo Harbor Freight chop saw with this bad boy and went from 45 second cuts to 5 second cuts with almost no pressure to cut through!

Nothing like making a cheezy tool work way better than it was ever intended! WIN!!!

I was hesitant to buy this blade since there were no reviews to vouch for its quality.I am a professional trim carpenter and needed a blade that could last and cut cleanly.I decided to take a chance rather than spend three times more $ on the festool brand or one of the other alternatives out there.I have been extremely impressed with this blade and have found the blade indistinguishable from the festool in use and in long life between sharpenings.I am buying a couple more since I like to have several blades on hand at all times.

Never using a stacked dado set before, I relied mostly on the reviews of the people here on Amazon (as I do for most of my purchases). Professional reviews from magazines or websites are nice, but I find that it's better to hear the feedback from actual Average Joe users. That said, it was a difficult decision choosing between the Oshlun and Freud sets, but after reading the reviews, I decided to spend a little less and go for the Oshlun set.

A big thing I keep reading in the reviews is how people feel the supplied box is just god awful and deduct a point or two for it. First off, I didn't spend $65 (6-inch set) for a cardboard box, I spent that much on the product inside. With that being said, and considering what people were saying about the box, I was really expecting something with a thickness less than a cereal box to be what held the dado set, but to my surprise, the box is actually very sturdy. It's also really nice that individual styrofoam cutouts were made to separate the saw blades so that they don't contact each other and chip the carbide tips. I plan on using the box as a long term storage piece for the time being until a time comes when I may need to build a wooden case for the set, but even then I'll use the original foam inserts for extra protection.

Aside from that, the blades cut a very smooth and flat bottom with very little chipout on the ends. The scoring was a little bit deeper than I had thought it would be initially, but it's not enough for me to worry about or deduct stars for. It hasn't done anything to lessen the quality of glue ups in my cuts, but if it had there's still 220 grit sandpaper to smooth it out in a few strokes.

Overall I am very pleased with this set. I've found it incredibly easy to change the setup and the included chart for sizes is really nice as well. I have no regrets about the purchase.

One of the best blades I've owned over the last 30 years.

I bought this blade in May of 2014, bolted it up to a 10" Dewalt crosscut saw and started cutting 3 x 5 aluminum extrusion and several other types of aluminum. I've also cut PVC, ABS, and soft woods with it. The only thing I ever do to it is run a bit of beeswax over the teeth and sides once every month or two.

3-1/2 years later, and that same blade is still bolted up and cutting like the day I bought it.... minus all of the pretty red paint of course. 🙂

Much nicer cut on plywood than the factory blade. Kerf size seems to be exactly the same so the lasers do not need adjustment between this and the Festool blade. I just got it so time will tell about longevity but as far as I can see at this point, paying more than double for the Festool 80t doesn’t seem to be a wise choice.

Great blade for the price. They fit my Fein, dewalt perfectly. Very happy and will purchase them again.

Since there aren't many reviews on this blade I figured I'd give it a rating. I bought this to attach to a husqvarna 165rx clearing saw. Having previously used another carbide tipped blade (husqvarna Christmas tree attachment) and after wearing that blade out I was in search of another as rebuilding the blade alone would cost 1.5x the cost of this blade. Sharpen style blades just don't cut it so I figured I'd give this blade a try for what it costs.

I am throughly happy with this blade purchase as it mets my expectations with flying colors. I am mostly using this blade for pasture brush control (hedge, cedar, and locust). Cuts trees like a hot knife easily cutting down a 6" tree, can cut bigger with a back cut but trees get fairly tall with that diameter and could potentially fall towards you without a way to stop it due to having to hold saw. I have not hit any rocks or wire with it yet so I can't tell you how it would hold up to that but I feel like it would. If I happen to hit a rock or wire I'll report back with details if teeth fall off. Eventually I know the blade will get dull, hopefully I will cut enough trees coupled with not having to sharpen it to justify the cost and order another.

There is one thing that I am disappointed with is the blade is manufactured in China. I didn't rate it negatively for this because I feel that if it was a USA made blade it would probably be in the $80 -$100 range.

I would highly recommend this blade for a similar situation as mine. If by rare chance you have a clearing saw with a Christmas tree attachment (used for husqvarna clearing saws and allows use of 12" blade, normally only accepts 10" without attachment) that you want a blade for.

I was very pleased to find this product being offered on AMAZON. I received the blades very quickly and at a great price. I was concerned about whether the blades would fit and be of good quality. I found out I had not needed to have worried about either account.

I bought this blade because of the you tube “project farm” review (Best review channel). Understand only rated for ~1500rpm but installed on chop saw at 3300rpm and cut Aluminum, Raw Hide (Dog), PVC, and wood. Too much risk to cut anything harder but no tooth chips yet. Please take care, where leather wielding apron, face/neck shield, heavy jeans… a carbide tooth coming off at that speed can ‘hurt’ 🙂

Using this on a Makita demo saw. Had a cheaper(McGills Warehouse) blade with 80 teeth on it. The McGills blade heated up and warped the blade plate while cutting so it wasn't much use. Fewer teeth on this blade and the way the carbide attaches(big shoulder on the plate behind the carbide) will make this blade much more durable and usable. Haven't seen any blade deflection yet but there's no wood sap build up on it yet. Cuts fast, doesn't jump or bounce much(use light pressure with the low tooth count as it cuts very aggressively).

I couldn't be happier with this blade. It has allowed me to cut very small slivers of Avonite on my table saw. Before I had this blade if I tried to cut thin sliver the material would break ruining my piece. Silky smooth cutting…

Excellent tool. Mounted on a Chicago Electric, 6", cut off saw (9K rpm-no load). Cut through 1 1/4" x 1 1/2", 6061 aluminum bar stock with ease. With only mild pressure, the aluminum chafe flew. Gone in 30 seconds.

This blade is incredible. I just finished cutting plywood parts for two large roll around cabinets and the blade made laser smooth cuts. Just remember that when cutting expensive veneered plywood to raise your blade to its highest setting. This trick provides the least amount of tear out. I know this goes against what many of us were taught about safety and it does expose more blade. But if you are thoughtful and keep your hands in the clear the cutting result will be worth the extra effort. If your not comfortable raising the blade use tape on your cut line. Either way, this blade is worth the price and makes clean cuts.

This is my new favorite demo blade.

I spent a day with this blade. It cuts rough, but for demolition work that doesn't matter. It managed to cut through a few hundred deck screws, and rip up a few sheets of plywood that had been coated in 1/4" thick epoxy and fiberglass. This blade is a beast - after all that it's still perfectly sharp and hasn't taken any damage. Besides being so durable, it's really QUICK cutting.

Prior to using this, I had been doing demo work with a sawzall with demo blades. This thing lasts way longer and cuts much quicker. After putting this in an old circular saw, I barely touched the sawzall.

I used to buy Endurance blades because they lasted the longest. They went up in price so I tried Oshlun. It works just as well or better and lasts as long. I can now buy 2 blades for what I used to spend on one. These types of blades don't last a long time anyway but they will last longer if you keep slow and steady feed rates and don't try to take on too many layers at a time if cutting flat stock. It's easy to chip a tooth on the edges of the steel both starting and finishing a cut. These chips mean that the next tooth in line will be forced to do more work and soon it will fail, and so on.

Cuts great and great durability. Cut 3/16 plate smooth and easily. Compared to the original yellow brand I would say close to equal and good longevity. I use this saw alot so blades are important.

Excellent value, quality dado set. This has a good complement of chippers and shims to make nearly any width groove you want. The chippers cut smoothly with little to no vibration. The top-bevel teeth on the scoring blades (outer) do make a slightly deeper corner cut as described and as is the norm for this style dado. This dado set has much less tendency for chip-out compared to a router bit, and much improved resistance to burning compared to a router bit.

Oshlun Customer service is excellent. I received one shim with a slight manufacturing defect. Oshlun customer service provided a complete replacement shim set promptly upon identifying the problem to them.
Be aware that the shim set is manufactured to a tight tolerance fit to the arbor, as are the cutting blades. This can make removal of the shims and blades a little slow, but you are assured of good centering of the blades and shims on the arbor. I don't regard this as a defect.

I am very pleased with this dado set and recommend it. I also have an 8-inch Oshlun box joint saw set that has also pleased me.

Amazon Prime delivered very promptly and delivered pricing was excellent.

Great blade for the price. I've been using this daily for over a year, and it still cuts clean and crisp. I make sure to remove any build-up of material behind the teeth, so it doesn't burn the wood, but other than that it's been no trouble at all. Definitely a decent alternative to the Festool blades.

I have been using these blades for several years as an economical alternative to Festool branded blades and I believe they may in fact be the same blade! Performance wise there is no difference at all. Would 100% recommend them to all serious woodworkers and DIY as well.

Ok, I received this blade about a week ago and decided to replace the 60T stock blade on my Kapex for a large built in job. This required me to cross cut a LOT of 3/4 and 1/4 oak plywood. This stuff can be made a mess pretty easily with a crappy blade. The 80T did a wonderful job on the ply and solid materials. Almost no tear out/splintering on the ply and the cuts on the solid stock where beautiful. This blade cuts as well as my $150 Tenyru. Time will tell how well/long it stays sharp. Will post more info in a few weeks.

UPDATE.....been using the blade for a couple of weeks. Still sharp. The thing that sets this blade apart, and all good blades, is the ability to cut small amounts from small mouldings and leave them laying on the table rather than sending them off like a missle. This blade has not thrown anything yet! Will be purchasing another one as a back up.

I bought this blade to install 320 square feet of laminate flooring. I bought nice 12mm laminate with the attached pad, so it was a nice thick laminate. I put this blade on my compound miter saw, and it sliced through the laminate like butter. There was no chipping, no burning, and the blade still seemed sharp even after we were done installing the floor. I saved it in case I want to use it again! I highly recommend this product.

I need to cut aluminum frequently but also hate changing blades on my miter saw because it takes 35 minutes to remove all the safety gizmos before spending 10 seconds changing the blade. Using the wrong blade on a 10" saw can be VERY dangerous, and some blades made for metal pretty much burn their way through wood. With this blade, I get great cuts on aluminum, as expected. I can also cut most other materials just as clean as with other blades, just slightly slower. I'd much rather cut a piece of wood in two seconds instead of one second rather than changing blades twice.

Metal blades can be very specific, even if they look basically the same. Don't use this for steel. I have one of their steel blades, and it's also good. Similarly, if you need to cut stainless steel, buy a blade for that. It might seem like a lot of trouble and money to have so many blades, but they exist for a reason. If you're not a pro, a good blade will likely last a lifetime, or at least until you buy that CO2 laser you've always wanted.

I can not see any difference between my Festool blade and that one. Smooth cut with nice glossy feel to it.

There are a few things out there that are better options than Festool Replacement ones, all of which come at a better value.

Examples include t
1) Splinter Guard tape from Makita for the tracks which are way cheaper and better.
2) Bosh 35mm hose for 30$ ish compared with the 36mm from Festool at ridiculous price.
3) MFT3 MDF top that you can do yourself from any 3/4 MDF sheet.

My dewalt track saw was wandering, after aligning the resharpened stock blade perfectly parallel, it was still binding in thick hardwoods. I’m glad I bought this blade instead of throwing my saw in the ocean, because it cuts better than ever. It’s a bit thicker than the stock blade which is a good thing, made a decent clean cut in 1-1/2” thick sycamore with zero burn marks.

Bought this to fabricate display from 4mm acrylic sheet. Cut well without chipping. Edges needed only a little sanding and then time on a buffing wheel gave nicely polished edges. Blade is good value and gave very good results.

I purchased this April 2015 and it's been dead for a while so I just left it on the chop saw and forgot about it. Today I went to change my blade, so I removed the laser guide and replaced the batteries. Sure enough it started working again. I was so impressed it still worked that I came here to write a review about it. In today's throw away culture it's hard to find a product that works just like new 10 years later. I probably used my miter saw at least once a week during that 10-year period, so it's been spinning on my saw for a long time.

I bought this to cut up left over Ipe decking. That stuff is harder than the hub of hell. I am very sure on softwood even 20 years Doug fir it would cut like butter. The Ipe is too dense and the blade need more teeth to cut quickly.

Just received this blade yesterday, and I put it to work cutting 45 deg angles to make Aluminum Window Screen frames. This blade is sturdy and strong, no wobbling on my cheap Delta Miter saw, and it cut through the aluminum frame like cutting through cheese. I did use a little bit of lub, i.e. WD-40, as the directions on the carton stated, but I do not think that I needed to do so. Prior to purchasing this blade, I had used the abrasive style blade to cut through the aluminum frame and the cut quality was a disaster, and not the quality that I will install on the front of my house. So I looked up the various blades that were available for cutting aluminum, and I found this one with great reviews. I went ahead and purchased it to try it out. Great value and great performance. Although there is another Oshlun blade available to cut aluminum with 60 teeth, but I opted to buy the 100 teeth blade which makes it much easier to cut through aluminum, and the blade will last a lot longer. I am glad I bought it.

This is only a short term review as this blade has not seen a lot of use. It is installed in my DeWalt metal cutting saw. Cuts on aluminum tubing, flat bar, and angle are fairly clean and easy, leaving only small bits of scale on the tubing ends. I applied lubricating wax to the blade prior to using it and during the cutting process. There appears to be no aluminum residue build up after doing this.

Make sure you have the right saw for this type of blade. The blade is rated for max 1800rpm. This is not a standard miter saw blade!

But if you have the right saw (in my case, I used an Evolution Powertools Evo380 metal cutting non-abrasive chop saw) you're wanting to cut some 304-316 stainless for a project or product you're developing or building, have at it! It's been an excellent blade for my use case.

Picture shows cut 1/16" 316 (that's aerospace grade, harder than 304!) stainless steel being handled by bare hands immediately after cutting. Fun!

I upgraded my stock blade on my Bosch Surgeon Axle Glide compound mitre. For trim work, this is fantastic. The cut is smooth and minimal tear out, even on the underside, where most tear out occurs. The finish surface of the cut is so smooth that sanding is almost not needed. One other thing: almost no deflection in the blade. This stiff blade really helps with keeping the cut straight on wide boards.

Quite impressed with the quality, durability, and value of this blade. I only used it to cut up to 2" x 2" square aluminum tubing and am pleased. It still seems to cut fine after dozens of cuts. That said I highly recommend this blade

This is only a short term review as this blade has not seen a lot of use. It is installed in my DeWalt metal cutting saw. Cuts on aluminum tubing, flat bar, and angle are fairly clean and easy, leaving only small bits of scale on the tubing ends. I applied lubricating wax to the blade prior to using it and during the cutting process. There appears to be no aluminum residue build up after doing this.

I've bought these in the past and they perform well at a fraction of Fein's price. That said, they're not metal cutting like the Feins but they do a good job on wood.

I was looking for a bade to cut aluminum for a FIRST robotics team working out of my basement. My initial search through a well known industrial supplier showed blades like this starting at $250. That was pretty much a non-starter. I found this one on Amazon and read the reviews and decided to give it a try. It cuts cleanly, quietly, and quickly. We have been cutting parts for several weeks now and the blade shows no signs of dulling. It also works great on PVC pipe and wood (we used that for training purposes. I have done a lot of shop work over the years and I can say this is an excellent blade. I highly recommend this to anyone who is planning to cut aluminum on conventional shop equipment. I used this blade on a table saw.

In addition to cutting sheet plastics, this blade cuts styrofoam sheets, leaving smooth edges and minimal "saw dust". I cut 1-inch and 2-inch thick sheets of styrofoam with excellent results. If you want to cut styrofoam with straight line rips, miters, etc. and have a table saw, this blade is the ticket.

Can't say what the lifespan of this blade will be, but on our Grizzly 10" table saw this blade cut several 3/4" thick panels of extremely dense plastic being used for public restroom stall partitions. I don't know what type plastic this was, but the stuff is so heavy that it took two of my adult male construction crewmen to move 1 sheet. One man couldn't move one. VERY heavy and dense. This blade cut it like butter. I don't see how you can beat that for the very reasonable price of this blade.

I bought this for my Evolution R210 CMS saw. I only use this saw for cutting metal. Used this blade to make some cuts in mild steel. It cuts the steel like butter with very few sparks. It's much better the Eolutions original blade. I can recommend this blade for sure. Due to shipping and import taxes this blade is twice it's original price but still cheaper then an Evolution Steel blade (blue series).

Theses blades are incredible and when used properly work as good as any fine wood chop or miter saw. I bought one and one of my sub contractors, without permission, use it on a job site and bummed it up, so I bought another. No one get's to use it now that is not trained in it's usage.
Still going strong after several jobs and just as clean a cut as the first.

Best blade I have purchased in a long time. Tried a blade made by a different seller on Amazon. Said it was for alum but just loaded up. This blade goes through like butter....will buy again but don't think I can wear this out!

This blade does exactly what it says it will do. It cuts a nice straight cut thru aluminum like butter. No kickback at all. One thing it does that's a negative is the chips it creates. They're little flakes that are hard to clean up. I've swept them up even used the shop vac and I still keep finding them. This is not the fault of the blade or saw. This is just how it works but it is something to make note of.

We buy these every time we go through them which owning a construction business is at least 4 times a year.

Never using a stacked dado set before, I relied mostly on the reviews of the people here on Amazon (as I do for most of my purchases). Professional reviews from magazines or websites are nice, but I find that it's better to hear the feedback from actual Average Joe users. That said, it was a difficult decision choosing between the Oshlun and Freud sets, but after reading the reviews, I decided to spend a little less and go for the Oshlun set.

A big thing I keep reading in the reviews is how people feel the supplied box is just god awful and deduct a point or two for it. First off, I didn't spend $65 (6-inch set) for a cardboard box, I spent that much on the product inside. With that being said, and considering what people were saying about the box, I was really expecting something with a thickness less than a cereal box to be what held the dado set, but to my surprise, the box is actually very sturdy. It's also really nice that individual styrofoam cutouts were made to separate the saw blades so that they don't contact each other and chip the carbide tips. I plan on using the box as a long term storage piece for the time being until a time comes when I may need to build a wooden case for the set, but even then I'll use the original foam inserts for extra protection.

Aside from that, the blades cut a very smooth and flat bottom with very little chipout on the ends. The scoring was a little bit deeper than I had thought it would be initially, but it's not enough for me to worry about or deduct stars for. It hasn't done anything to lessen the quality of glue ups in my cuts, but if it had there's still 220 grit sandpaper to smooth it out in a few strokes.

Overall I am very pleased with this set. I've found it incredibly easy to change the setup and the included chart for sizes is really nice as well. I have no regrets about the purchase.

This blade works very well. I use it all the time in my line of work. I cut mostly 3/8 all thread rod with it on my milwaukee 28v cordless saw. very handy when you need to shorten all thread rod when your up 20 feet off the floor and need to make a quick cut.

Quite impressed with the quality, durability, and value of this blade. I only used it to cut up to 2" x 2" square aluminum tubing and am pleased. It still seems to cut fine after dozens of cuts. That said I highly recommend this blade

This type of laser is the best thing you can add to your miter saw if you want some type of aid to show where the blade on the saw will cut. People argue that the shadow line devices are the best- I have both and think this laser is superior. This device puts a line on the material exactly where the blade will cut on the left side of the blade- where 99% of your cuts are made. The line is bright and super sharp- it diminishes in sunlight but you can see it. The shadow line is good, but for it to be accurate you have to bring the blade down to the material. If you don’t, the line is wider than the cut. Also, in sunlight you can’t use it. I like this tool so much more I added it to a saw with the shadow line. Buy it, put it on, use it! It’s as easy as that.

My miter saw is one of my favorite saws. It is so versatile. One thing that I don’t like about it though is it doesn’t have an LED light like some of the newer models do. I tried to find one that works with my saw but there are none. I was watching a woodworking video and the guy doing the video had one of these. So , I decided to buy one.

When I received the package it included the laser guide and three small watch type batteries. When I opened the back of the guide to install the batteries I was pleasantly surprised that batteries were already installed. So the three batteries are extra batteries. That was a nice touch by the manufacturer.

Connect to my saw was very simple. As the blade sounds the laser guide automatically turns on and emits a laser that creates a line on what you are cutting. The cut line matched up perfectly with the laser. One thing I knew ahead of time but not everyone might know before using one of these laser guides is that the saw blade needs to be spinning in order for the guide to work. An LED light always shines and casts a shadow line on the object you are cutting whether the blade is spinning or not. But for this laser guide you need to engage the blade and have it spinning in order for the laser to create a cut line. You can keep the blade high enough and safely out of the way of any adjustments you may need to make to your piece being cut. I usually spin, stop the blade, adjust, spin the blade again and repeat the process if necessary until its is exactly where yo want it to be. I know my saw well enough that I usually put the piece of wood down in the right spot or close to it most of the time and just need to spin the blade once to make some minor adjustments.

I don’t have the money yet to buy a fancier saw with an LED light so until that happens I’m gong to keep using this laser guide as it works well.

I was skeptical about this laser especially when it arrived and I seen it was used with the package cut open and taped back together.
And I seen the other reviews about it being too thick and having to use washers to space out the guide. Witch I did not have to do.
I didn't have to modify anything at all. Just removed the stock washer/spacer that goes against the blade and put the laser in its place. The laser is thicker though by about a 1/8" at the most and closer to a 16th but it did not interfere with anything on my 12" double bevel saw, DWS779
If the speed of the saw drops as in cutting through something thick the laser starts to cut out from not spinning fast enough but your already past the point of needing it by that time
The thing I was interested in the most was how it lined up with the actual cut line but it does perfectly as it lines up exactly where it cuts to the point that after the cut it barely can be seen on the board again and goes down in the cut path.
I just wish I would have bought it long ago lol
It came with 3 watch batteries already in it and 3 spares (LR44) and I've only used it a couple days so far so I don't know how long they last yet
So there you go and now you know

Have done a lot of wood working projects over the years. Have done carpentry on houses. Have done fiberglass work for boats. This was my first foray into Aluminum/Metal cutting. Purchased a 16' X 16' Mechanical Pergola kit for my home and needed to trim the beams, louvers, posts for the install. Purchased a 12" Compound Miter saw from Northern tool and upgraded the blade to this 120tooth metal cutting blade and OMG it was good! Cut 1000lbs of aluminum and it was cutting just as good on the last cut as the first cut. Well worth the money for the quality of the cutting. Beware though cutting metal is nothing like cutting wood! Clamp everything and be sure to keep the items you R cutting firm otherwise you'll get into trouble. I quickly learned as several items kicked and I broke a 2 teeth from this blade but for the rest of the project it kept cutting like they were not even missing.

I'm an industrial electrician that uses M12 for my everyday tools. I bought an M12 Fuel Circular Saw 2530-20 specifically because I wanted to try to cut metal with it. The Milwaukee blade is half the price of the saw, so I wanted to try something less expensive.

This thing cuts like butter! Cable Tray, Strut, DIN rail, 3/8 mild steel plate, you name it. I'm VERY happy. I've done quite a few cuts and it doesn't seem to be slowing down, but I picked up a standby blade for when I finally bite off more than I can chew.

Wear a FACE SHIELD with this thing, she throws shrapnel like no other. I was only wearing safety glasses and a piece of metal bounced off my cheek, hit the glasses and then hit my eyeball. Had to go to the optometrist and everything, I had a burn and needed to take eyedrops for a week, luckily my vision came back.

I bought this finish blade for my 12" Dewalt sliding miter saw. I have purchased some small, 4½" blades for my Rockwell saw. Don't laugh. The little saw is a lifesaver for demo and trimming in tight spaces. That said, I was happy with the construction and quality of those little blades so decided to try this 12", as well as a 10" for my table saw. For the price, I'm really impressed. Super sharp, quiet, and runs true with no vibration that I could specifically attribute to the blade and not the belt drive on the saw. I've used this with oak, pine, fir, poplar, Finnish plywood, and maple with excellent results. The cut is exceptionally smooth and tear-out is usually minimal to nonexistent. The plate is nice and heavy, which I prefer to the more popular thin kerf blades, due to the fact that when you're cutting prefinished hardwood crown in the nested position on your saw, there is very little blade deflection throughout the cut. It can be difficult to get a perfectly tight joint in a hardwood crown with a thin kerf blade as the blade will want to deflect to the side as you move through the cut. When you're working with custom trim that can run $80 to $150 and up per 8' stick, you want the best cut the first time, every time. I had considered other brands like CMT and Freud. Both of which I have a lot of experience using. I don't miss the Teflon coating of the CMT or Freud, but I also don't cut much wood that has a high resin content. The expansion slots are plugged with what I believe is copper. So it doesn't overheat or have that annoying ring that lesser blades can have. I found this to be true with the 10" blade in my table saw as well. If you're looking for an alternative to higher-priced blades, I'd give this one a serious look. I've done approximately 6 or so jobs with this blade and it is still as sharp as when I installed it. If this one has a decent lifespan, I am seriously considering a repeat buy for this one.

I was searching for a cheap blade for my Makita battery saw when I found this one that fits the Festool. Turns out to be perfect for the job. Not only does the blade cut just fine, but I hooked up the cyclone dust collection / vacuum and didn't have to breathe cement dust. Cutting the fiber cement didn't really do anything bad to the saw like I thought it might. Good blade but even better if you have the stuff to suck up the dust.

I use this in a Rage 3 saw by Evolution. Works very well. Cuts very similar to other TCT (dry cut cold saw) I have. I can't speak to longevity as I have only made a hand full of cuts so far, but overall it works exactly as expected. I think you'd be foolish to try to put this blade in a 5k rpm wood saw and think you're going to get nice cuts in steel. These blades are intended for steel saws that have blade RPMs in the 2k range. When you have this in the correct saw it will cut mild steel like butter.

I bought this only intending to cut sheet metal, which it does wonderfully well on my Dewalt track saw. I needed to cut a piece of 1/4" plate and was preparing to use my plasma cutter, but thought I'd give the track saw with Oshlun metal cutting blade a try. It worked! Had a go slow, but gave a nice clean cut, with a much better finish than what I'd get from the plasma cutter.

These Oshlun dado blades are the best that I've ever used. Having more chipper blades on the stacks make for a really nice smooth cut. I really recommend these blades.

This blade was chosen for the lower price, the arbor hole size, and the non ferrous cutting attribute. I was skeptical about quality but willing to chance it. It turns out to be a perfect fit for the Kapex, runs without wobble and cuts oak crown molding cleanly. It hasn't been used to cut aluminum, but should have no trouble since previous carbide blades I've used did it without dulling much.

I use this blade on a chop saw to cut wooden timbers imbedded with dirt, sand and occasional metal. I does a very good job. It won't stay sharp forever but I have had it resharpened and it works like new again. The person who sharpened it said I could probably have it sharpened 4 or 5 times more. It does the job I want it to. I don't recommend an inexperienced operator use it in this manner. You really have to know what you are doing to avoid pinching of the blade etc. I actually bought another one to use while the other is being sharpened.

Great blade regardless of it's low price. For several years I have used these in the production cutting of large aluminum extrusions.
On a 12" combination sliding saw, and using " Relton A9" cutting oil, I make steady slow cuts never overheating the material.
Take care of this blade it will cut cleanly and last as long as blades a 4x the money.

This blade turned my vintage metal cutting saw a beast. Using this blade in the vintage Zip Cut metal cutting saw, I test cut some 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum flats and was thoroughly impressed. The flats were cut with perfect and clean cuts that do not require any follow-up deburring. I then test cut a brass bar - 1" x 1/2" and the results were simply perfect.

I only wish I'd bought this blade sooner.

This is a great blade. I’m using it on a radial arm saw. Cuts are clean and accurate. The negative hook gives me much greater control when cross cutting with the radial arm saw because the blade isn’t so aggressive while traveling through the wood. When ripping “one by” pieces of pine or plywood I don’t have to push so hard and it allows me to feed the wood through at the optimum rate. It’s much safer than using a blade that’s intended for a table saw.

I have turned some very expensive wood into sawdust and regret. Surely with this tool I can do so at a much faster pace. I have never used a stack dado set before but some would-be-wood-worker-guys on YouTube make it look pretty easy, and most of them have their fingers. So how hard can it be? I threw away the instructions ‘cause, who needs those? When you have 3lbs of steel spinning at 6,000 rpm who cares about that? The center hole for the arbor is extremely close tolerance (and for good reason) which made installation and removal a bit challenging but when installed, very very secure. The instructions indicate the blade stack and shims are “under rated” or “under sized” to accommodate the nominal thickness of various woods. So I took them at face value and installed the 3/4” setup. Now, let me be clear, I have NEVER used a dado set before. I took out my calipers and measured the stack installed and tightened. Just short of .75” as promised. So far so good. Used a square to measure cut depth. So far so good. Set up the fence to center the cut at 4” from the desired edge. So far so good. With nervous anticipation green button, on. Soft start up, check. Dust collection, on. All seems to be going to plan. No noises. No vibrations. No issues. Time to put the wood to it! The cut quality was PERFECT! No tear out, no truly discernable ridges in the cut. The chippers made relatively clean cuts the whole distance. My first dado cut was 25” of pure success. The fitment of the dado was near perfect as far as I could tell. I glued it up, threw in a screw or four and all is well. I wiped the blades down as they had plenty of oil to protect them. The shipping/storage box is not pretty but adequate to protect them. Would recommend to anyone needing the occasional dado cut.

A very good quality substitute at a much better price than the overpriced dremel blades that I was forced to use

Listen up guys. I was looking for a blade that would cut aluminum profiles and work on a Dewalt chop saw running at 2800RPM so I emailed the manufacturer and got an immediate positive reply about this blade. LOOK NO FURTHER. This blade cuts aluminium clean and fast. No Burrs.
Buy this with your eyes closed but make sure they are open when using it.

We had purchased one of the Rage Saws, which are absolutely terrific in every way. However the replacement blades are expensive from Rage, and not easy to purchase locally. This Oshlun 10" Blade was deliberately designed to be compatible with the Rage Saws. Having a 1" Bore and Carbide Teeth, ground to provide a standard "triple chip type of cut", it is a perfect replacement for the Rage Steel Cutting Blade.

The blade cuts as well as any other quality brand blade, and at a far less cost.

An absolutely great saw blade for cutting aluminum. Definitely spend the extra money and get some lube for the saw blade I know it sounds weird but it will keep the aluminum from gumming up in between the teeth and make each cut really easy. Without it you'll be cleaning out your saw blade with a screwdriver and the cuts will not be clean and smooth. So do yourself a favor and get the lube for the saw blade when you purchase. It will also extend the life of your blade dramatically.

Wow... just, wow! I needed a way to cut aluminum angle stock with my table saw for a project I was working on, and this blade was the best option that I could find. Given the relatively low price, I wasn't sure what level of quality I could expect, but I really couldn't justify buying a more expensive blade for a single project. Fortunately, I didn't have to. When I tried it on a piece of scrap aluminum stock, the cut was excellent - smooth and clean, with very minimal burring. Even better, the blade cut through the light aluminum bar without any effort or binding. Nice! I cut the angle stock for my project and then found that with a blade that can cut soft metal so well, I had other projects that were suddenly practical. I've used the blade on aluminum, soft brass and hardwood so far, all with excellent results. This blade isn't inexpensive, but it's a bargain at the price if you need to cut softer metals and/or to make nice, smooth cuts on hardwood planks.

I've tried various brands of steel cutting blades over the years and feel like this is middle of the pack. It's way better than some out there in that the resulting edge is very clean with no burrs and isn't overly sharp. I made a pancake griddle out of 1/4" plate and didn't even have to sand the cut edge. It cuts 1/4" just fine but not quite as quickly as another brand I used before. But at half the price, I will buy these every time.

Love this blade. Bought for the low price and am quite suprised with the quality. I use it mostly for cutting wood and it does a great job. I also like that the blade is thicker and less prone to wobble therefore making better cuts. I will be looking at one for my miter saw (12") and see how that works out.

Purchased to use in Wood! Why? The 1" bore.

To explain, we have a 12" "Original Saw Company" Radial arm saw in the shop. The 12" blades we have tend to be deafeningly loud, the outer rim speed is so high.
To combat this, we use 10" blades thus reducing the outer rim speed a good deal. This was easy to do with my old Delta R.A.S. that had the arbor more common in 10" blades ( 5/8" ) .
Since upgrading to the "Original" with the 1" Arbor (proper for 12" blades) I have had a very hard time finding any non custom made 10" blades with 1" arbor,.. until this one.
It makes very clean cross cuts in pine and hard woods. No tear out, super smooth.

And it is Soooooo quiet in the big R.A.S. we can no longer hear it over the dust collection.

I was doubtful that a blade costing less than half its competitors could be good. The consistently positive reviews convinced me to try it. This blade is a treat. I used it with a high school robotics team to cut aluminum plate and square section tube with 0.125in wall thickness. We made more than 100 cuts. I kept the blade lubricated (started with a liquid lubricant - messy- and switched to wax) and didn't force it, just let the blade do the work. The cuts were easy, clean, and smooth. I did use good practice to clamp each piece to the miter saw before cutting, not using hands to hold the workpiece. We didn't lose a single tooth and plan to use the same blade in the coming year.

Worked perfect for cutting a corian countertop to remove a dual bowl sink and install a stainless steel one. Worked well bht I could tell by the end of the cut it was tired. Great blade for the purpose and it worked well with the harbor freight Bauer brand 4.5 circular saw to do the job. For Corian it worked perfectly

I bought the WEN track saw and was fairly impressed overall. The stock blade was horrible. I swapped it with this blade and man what a difference. I broke down a sheet of 3/4" birch and the cuts were very smooth with very little splintering. Very happy with this purchase.

I bought this blade because of the you tube “project farm” review (Best review channel). Understand only rated for ~1500rpm but installed on chop saw at 3300rpm and cut Aluminum, Raw Hide (Dog), PVC, and wood. Too much risk to cut anything harder but no tooth chips yet. Please take care, where leather wielding apron, face/neck shield, heavy jeans… a carbide tooth coming off at that speed can ‘hurt’ 🙂

So I "ran over " a steel bench dog with my Festool blade... Boo hoo my bad. There goes $80. Lesson learned, I'll buy a replacement. Here's an alternative... Hmm $24 for a similar tooth blade? Why not give it a try? Well glad I did! Great cut in 12mm birch plywood. Nary a scratch on the edge and splinter free--just like the $80 Festool blade! Now to stay away from those bench dogs... HIGHLY RECOMMENDED BLADE!

Inherited a radial arm saw. Read the manual and watched the on line vids and got the hell scared out of me and almost put it to the curb as being far too dangerous to use. Turns out, there are specific blades for these saws which minimize the grab of the blade on the wood but are NOT the same blades for for your chop or table saw, even though at first glance they look the same. I initially balked at paying 4-5 times the price of one of those blades for this "right" one, but factored in how versatile the saw could be and the cost of a trip to the local emergency room should the saw sling back on me....and bought one. Smartest decision ive made all month. With the addition of a bushing on the arbor, the blade fit my radial arm saw great and the cuts are smooth. The negative camber design (what sets them apart from other, regular saw blades used on other saws) is what keeps the blade from being too aggressive- essentually keeping it from biting off more than it can chew, and skating up and over the board, or suddenly yanking the board (and potentionally parts of my body) through when ripping. Used this on plywood, mdf, ash and cedar so far, does what it should, I have my fingers and the blade is still sharp.

Excellent quality, fits perfectly on my Worx and cuts aluminium as if it were butter. If the aluminium I have to cut is really thick, 4-5 mm (1/8-3/16) I help it with a bit of WD40 or any other rust-off spray, and it does the job. I've done the right choice and l'm really happy with it.

This is my first DADO stack, I'm glad I didn't invest money on a larger one because this will easily hit any depth I'll need to make. It also goes wider than my 7941 supports (at 23/32" I can still use the arbor nut, I haven't tried going wider yet)

After some of the comments on other reviews, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the floor it leaves. Seemed extremely flat to me.

My only (minor) complaint is that I really wish the shims had slightly larger holes for the arbor. They are only a little hard to put on, but extremely hard to take off. I preferred to nudge my fence rather than try to go back and add another shim, but this time I wasn't doing a lot of repeated cuts. If I need to set up an exact width I anticipate a bit of annoyance.

I purchased this to replace my worn-out Irwin in my table saw. For the price, I'm happy with it. It is sharp, doesn't exhibit any vibration, and doesn't ring. I you've used older style solid steel blades, you know what I mean by "ring". One caveat is that if you're looking for a mirror finish cut on your material, or are looking for a blade to run glue joints, I don't think this will be what you're looking for. While the blade is extremely sharp, and tear-out is very very minor to not distant, the cut edge will have a touch of roughness from tooth marks. That said, I've used this with oak, maple, fir, pine, and cabinet-grade plywood with excellent results. When ripping fillers for cabinetry, the quality of the cut is more than acceptable for that type of work. You end up with a tight joint without tear-out or gaps. If the cut will be exposed, you will have to do a little sanding, but that is usually expected anyway. Only the highest quality blades, such a Forrest, will give you a cut that doesn't require very much in the way of hard work. For the price, I'm more than happy with this blade and will most likely purchase more in the future as I need them.

We have a need to cut through 1/4 inch thick x 8 inch fiberglass. Previously we've used a band saw which is very tedious and difficult to keep to a straight line. We bought this blade to put in our chop saw. It's worked perfectly. We can slice cleanly through the fiberglass sheet in just a few seconds. Obviously it throws out a whole lot more dust than a band saw so protective masks and good ventilation are important.

For the cash this is an unbeatable bargain. I cut what seems like a mile of aluminum U-channel with this blade in my DeWalt compound miter box and it sailed through it. ONE BIG POINT: You must use a lubricant when cutting aluminum or the aluminum will melt and fuse to the carbide tips of ANY blade, quickly destroying it, including this one.

The best, and most practical lubricant I've found is stick wax. You can use Stick-Kut from Relton, Castrol's Wax Stick or Boelube. These types of lubricants are packaged in what look like caulking gun tubes and are applied to the sides and teeth of the blade every twenty cuts or so. You can also use beeswax, paraffin or a candle. If you use these lubricants this blade should last forever.

Another big point is the work MUST be securely held. I made a fixture using De-Sta-Co clamps for my miter box which very securely held the aluminum channel I was cutting which made the entire process safe.

In short a super blade for a super price

Up to this point, I have only used friction and abrasive blades to cut steel. I was skeptical of a blade that looks just like your standard wood blade would work well and could last. But I have been very happy with the speed and smoothness of the cuts, and so far, the blade seems to have remained quite sharp. I've only cut about four 1/2" dia. bolts and a dozen or so 1/2" rebar, so it's still a little early to tell how long it will remain sharp. But it has saved me a lot of time and has kept the metal much cooler than with other blade types. I'm very happy with it so far.

Theses blades are incredible and when used properly work as good as any fine wood chop or miter saw. I bought one and one of my sub contractors, without permission, use it on a job site and bummed it up, so I bought another. No one get's to use it now that is not trained in it's usage.
Still going strong after several jobs and just as clean a cut as the first.

I needed to cut many aluminum cleats that were 34" down to 29.75" to fit on the back of the cabinets. I bought a DeWalt Atomic 4 1/2" saw during Xmas, and this blade was all I could find that would fit the saw. So I bolted this up and made my cuts with ease. Being too lazy to change blades, I use this blade to cut the wood rail buffers, and it cut the wood as good as the wood blade. After making about 20 cuts, the blade showed no signs of wear or loss of cutting power. The blade is very quick in speed and easy to control. Sure beat using a hack saw like I did last time. Kind of pricey, but time was not on my side. I searched all over the internet and Home Depot, but they only offered 7"+ blades.

Great price and good product, As a contractor these do not last long. Everyday usage cutting nails, copper, gyroc and wood. But the blades do the job needed.

I'm a big Festool fan. Well, I should say that I really like the Festool products that I currently own. I've owned a few green tools that....well.....sucked. The track saw is one of my favorites. Yeah, it's a little underpowered when cutting bevels but I rarely use it to make these cuts. One thing, IMO, that Festool doesn't do well is make blades. I've owned a couple of the Kapex saws and the blades provided are pretty sad. The fact that they provide a 60T blade with a $1400 miter saw is ridiculous. Do they really think someone is using this saw for something other than finish trim??? Sure it has a negative hook but still.... Back to the Oshlun blade. It cuts great. Super clean cross cuts and plenty fast when ripping 3/4 ply. I highly recommend this blade and will be purchasing another. I purchased the 80T for my Kapex and it's a great blade as well.

Very nicely machined. It moves and holds its position very nicely. Easy to read dial; easy to read numbers. The fractional numbering on the outside of the dial, which makes the fractions easier to see. The decimal scale on the inside of dial is more natural to look at and the smaller size is not a problem to read. Other more expensive fractional calipers I have seen are much harder to read. Very nice for the price.

I admit...I haven't used this yet. I bought it based on reviews from several woodworking friends and decided on this set rather than cheaper dado versions. I've been a woodworker for decades and used the old wobble dado version by Craftsman and wanted something that was easier to fine tune the width. This has it! The blades are plenty substantial, very heavy, with a variety of thinner spacers to fine tune the dado width. I'm looking forward to using this and can tell it's going to be perfect for my dado needs.

I used this dado set just to check out the cut, I can't believe how fine of a cut this set makes. I cut a 1/4" tongue/groove to see the fit. No gaps, spaces and as smooth as glass. Then I cut just cut a whisper off to make a sliding tonque/groove, again, unbelievably smooth. This would make excellent drawer slides. I can't believe that a $150-$300 set could cut any better. A great bargain for $.

Purchased to cut aluminum soffit for a residing project. It cut amazingly well and much faster and cleaner than using tin snips. I used a sled on my table saw and the cuts were clean without leaving dangerously sharp edges. I was surprised how clean it was on the thin material. It did bend the ventilation perforations slightly, but that was expected and not enough to cause any issues.

I purchased this blade to cut some 1/8" thick aluminum angle stock with my 8.5" Hitachi sliding miter saw. The cuts were extremely clean, with essentially no burrs. After 20+ cuts (which obviously isn't much!) the blade is essentially new and cutting the same as when first installed.

This is an excellent dado set that produces a true flat bottom dado. The number of chipper blades and shims enable very precise measurements. They are as good as dado sets costing much more.

I have read several reviews for Dado stacks, and I thought I would give this one a try. A few reviews on other unnamed products are that the cut is uneven, the blades are all over the place and wobbly to grooved cuts and no repeatability. I am running this on a dewalt dw7345 contractors saw which is a 10" I opted for the 6" blade because I really don't see hte point in getting an 8" set for 20 bucks more when dado's are usually no more than 1" deep in extreme circumstances. the blades are dialed in on a micrometer and measure exactly what they claim, the shims are super accurate nad enable you to really dial in thicknesses to the micrometer. For the money this is a super sharp set up and has so many variations. I have shown one thing which I believe to be true on any saw blade single rip or dado. First cut was with no zero clearance image number three with all the tearout, and keep in mind this was baltic birch 1/2" plywood across the grain, with the grain with or without zero clearance was fine, and the second set is with a simple piece of hardboard over top, ran the blade up through it and successfully created a killer locking box joint using the 1/4,1/4, 1/4 method. I would recommend this to anyone!