Oshlun Professional Grade Saw Blades

A very good quality substitute at a much better price than the overpriced dremel blades that I was forced to use

I had a project that needed a blade that was not only one that would fit my compound miter saw but also one that would be designed for cutting aluminum. I went on line and googled my need and was pleased to find the Oshlun blade offered at a reasonable price. I read a few of the reviews that were on line relating to others that had purchased their blades and was convinced that I should do that too. I placed an order for the 8" 60 tooth blade designed for cutting aluminum and was pleasantly surprised how quickly I received it. I have used the new blade for cutting aluminum rails & other parts of the outside railing system that I am working on & the blade cuts all the aluminum parts perfectly. I am very happy that I made the purchase that I did. With out the new Oshlun blade I could not do the job that I have done.

I have no idea why anyone would pay more than you would pay for this set. I had this exact set for years, it cuts very smooth bottom dados. I really like the full size chippers, and I’ve always been able to get the exact width that I need. I really don’t know why anyone would pay $100 more or $150 more just to cut smooth dados, I’m not thinking that the carbide tip blades in the $250 sets are going to last one minute longer than the carbide tips in this set. Due to circumstances beyond my control, I had to buy a new set, I did look around before purchasing this brand, and found no reason to buy anything different. Get it and you’ll be happy with it.

This is a great blade. I’m using it on a radial arm saw. Cuts are clean and accurate. The negative hook gives me much greater control when cross cutting with the radial arm saw because the blade isn’t so aggressive while traveling through the wood. When ripping “one by” pieces of pine or plywood I don’t have to push so hard and it allows me to feed the wood through at the optimum rate. It’s much safer than using a blade that’s intended for a table saw.

I used to buy Endurance blades because they lasted the longest. They went up in price so I tried Oshlun. It works just as well or better and lasts as long. I can now buy 2 blades for what I used to spend on one. These types of blades don't last a long time anyway but they will last longer if you keep slow and steady feed rates and don't try to take on too many layers at a time if cutting flat stock. It's easy to chip a tooth on the edges of the steel both starting and finishing a cut. These chips mean that the next tooth in line will be forced to do more work and soon it will fail, and so on.

I already owned an inexpensive digital caliper but if I leave thee button battery in it when not in use the battery discharges over time. Also the return to zero does drift slightly during use. When I found I needed a fractional caliper I decided to try a dial type.

I bought the Oshlum Dial Caliper over 2 years ago from Amazon for about $31; but I waited to use it on several projects to determine how good it was for my need and how well it held up before I reviewed it. I use it for DIY projects so I did not want to spend the price for a professional grade tool.That considered I found the build quality to be very good and it returned to zero every time. The action was very smooth and was as accurate as I could determine against an extrapolation caliper I know is accurate to .0005 inch. The dial is large enough to easily view and displays both fractional measures on the outside of a drawn ring and decimal measures on inside of the ring. I did not abuse it but it did hit a cement floor more than once and has not shown any damage. I found it excellent for my needs so it deserves the 5 stars.

Product was shipped and delivered promptly after order was placed.

The blade set I received was in the aluminum case with heavy foam support around perimeter and foam sheets in between all blades. I am a weekend hobby woodworker and never used dado blades before the purchase. These work great for me! All the blades and shims in my set came clearly marked and I found it easy to make slight adjustments and dial in the exact width of cut I needed. I have a 15+ yr old JET JWTS series contractor saw and the blades and shims went on and off my factory 5/8" arbor with no problems. I will say that the shims can be a little tricky as they tend to find their way down into the arbor threads so be careful with that. All the blade teeth were complete and sharp (no nicks or quality issues as some other reviewers have cited). I have used once so far making many dado slots in MDF. The cuts were clean with a smooth, flat bottom. As the manufacturer clearly explains in the included literature the outer blade teeth are angled and slightly deeper intentionally to cut a crisp clean edge and bottom with minimal tearout. The minimal bottom corner groove produced by the outer blade teeth is barely noticeable and not a concern for me. Another positive for me was the full chipper blade design. I was down to this set or the similarly priced set from Freud. I had read a few reviews that indicated the partial chipper blades in the Fred set were not so easy to align and hold in place when installing on the arbor. That was a key factor in my choice of the Oshlun set. I have to say that even with the full chipper blades, aligning multiple blades for wider cuts can be tedious, especially if you need to use a few shims. I am very glad I went with the Oshlun in that regard because I understand now how much more difficult it would likely be with partial blades.

Overall I am 100% happy with my purchase and I highly recommend to anyone considering.

These blades do the job, last longer than most and are excellent value for the $$$

I've had a Festool track saw since around 2004. It's such a great tool that continues to work like new despite the fact that I don't baby it. Given the build quality of the saw, I have little doubt that the festool blades are premium quality and probably stay sharp longer than this cheaper blade. But so far the Oshlun is performing comparably, so no regrets or reservations about having it as a backup when I send the festool blades for sharpening.

This blade turned my vintage metal cutting saw a beast. Using this blade in the vintage Zip Cut metal cutting saw, I test cut some 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum flats and was thoroughly impressed. The flats were cut with perfect and clean cuts that do not require any follow-up deburring. I then test cut a brass bar - 1" x 1/2" and the results were simply perfect.

I only wish I'd bought this blade sooner.

As a complete novice woodworker, I watched YouTube videos of people doing amazing and easy finger joints with dado stacks. Most said for basic work you don't need to buy a really expensive set.

Well, maybe you don't, but do not go the cheapest set your local store has. Get these instead.

I bought a Skil brand dado stack for 40 bucks at a local store. I made about 5 attempts at notches. I adjusted them, I tried every blade they gave me. All the cuts were horribly uneven, had a lot of blowout in the back, and I was extremely disappointed with them. I uploaded pictures of the best ones.

I then decided to go with suggestions on these reviews and give these a shot, for not much more than my terrible Skil experience. I got them today, tossed them on, and made a cut (I'm just using a miter gauge and a clamp for the test cuts).

I was amazed. It was a lazy cut, I'm not using a sled like I normally would, I'm not even using a zero clearance throat plate. Just a miter gauge. And the cut was near perfect and uniform. I uploaded several pictures.

There is no blowout the back, and in fact I can't even tell which side I cut from just by looking at it.

While I'm sure these aren't as precision as a much much more expensive set, for the relatively cheap price these are very worth it. Get them and don't waste your time with skil.

Great blade regardless of it's low price. For several years I have used these in the production cutting of large aluminum extrusions.
On a 12" combination sliding saw, and using " Relton A9" cutting oil, I make steady slow cuts never overheating the material.
Take care of this blade it will cut cleanly and last as long as blades a 4x the money.

Did an excellent job cutting my kitchen countertop to size. After about 40 linear feet, it became noticeably duller. Overall, very plesed I was able to accomplish the job with just my small circular saw. I think it would do equally well for other brand names like Corian.

I've just installed it on my DeWalt DWS 782, so I can't speak to longevity. However, it works and the laser line is right on the money. Bonus points for including extra batteries. Also, the hardest part of installing it was the process I would normally have to follow for changing the blade on my saw. Lastly, make sure you tighten the bolt on the blade properly. I thought I tightened it enough without ham handing it, but once the blade brake turned on the blade broke most and kept spinning.

Was looking for a replacement blade about a year ago when my original Makita beam was blade started getting dull. Found the Oshlun blade on Amazon and resisted buying it at first due to the low price. I just ordered my second one after using the first one 6 days a week for 10 months. We cut large Western Red Cedar, cypress, fir and spruce beams all day long with this blade (both rips and cross cuts). This blade has never warped under heating (and we really heat this thing up some days). Good blade at any price.

These Oshlun dado blades are the best that I've ever used. Having more chipper blades on the stacks make for a really nice smooth cut. I really recommend these blades.

I purchased this to replace my worn-out Irwin in my table saw. For the price, I'm happy with it. It is sharp, doesn't exhibit any vibration, and doesn't ring. I you've used older style solid steel blades, you know what I mean by "ring". One caveat is that if you're looking for a mirror finish cut on your material, or are looking for a blade to run glue joints, I don't think this will be what you're looking for. While the blade is extremely sharp, and tear-out is very very minor to not distant, the cut edge will have a touch of roughness from tooth marks. That said, I've used this with oak, maple, fir, pine, and cabinet-grade plywood with excellent results. When ripping fillers for cabinetry, the quality of the cut is more than acceptable for that type of work. You end up with a tight joint without tear-out or gaps. If the cut will be exposed, you will have to do a little sanding, but that is usually expected anyway. Only the highest quality blades, such a Forrest, will give you a cut that doesn't require very much in the way of hard work. For the price, I'm more than happy with this blade and will most likely purchase more in the future as I need them.

Excellent tool. Mounted on a Chicago Electric, 6", cut off saw (9K rpm-no load). Cut through 1 1/4" x 1 1/2", 6061 aluminum bar stock with ease. With only mild pressure, the aluminum chafe flew. Gone in 30 seconds.

This blade is incredible. I just finished cutting plywood parts for two large roll around cabinets and the blade made laser smooth cuts. Just remember that when cutting expensive veneered plywood to raise your blade to its highest setting. This trick provides the least amount of tear out. I know this goes against what many of us were taught about safety and it does expose more blade. But if you are thoughtful and keep your hands in the clear the cutting result will be worth the extra effort. If your not comfortable raising the blade use tape on your cut line. Either way, this blade is worth the price and makes clean cuts.

I installed this blade in my Milwaukee abrasive chop saw. I carefully looked at the blade speed and determined this would match up. This blade makes perfect, clean cuts in extruded aluminum (80/20 type material). The only drawback i see when using this in an abrasive saw is the time to get the blade up to speed and slow down after cuts. Be careful. Use plenty of blade lubricant as well.

When I initially purchased this blade I wasn't expecting for it to work as well and last as long as it did given the price. We used it to cut a bunch of 3/16" sheet steel and some stainless steel perforated sheet. It's a bit dulled after this project but still has all it's teeth intact and I feel I got good value and service out of it given the price in comparison to some "big name brands".

I bought this blade as a replacement for my Evolution Tools Fury 3 saw. All I can saw is WOW! This blade cuts 10 times better than the blade that ships with the saw. It cuts faster, cleaner, and far smoother. It's better balanced than the original as well. I will never buy another blade from Evolution Power Tools as long as Olshun makes this blade. Buy one and you'll understand. It's easily worth 3x what it sells for.

The blades can cut either a 1/4" or a 3/8" dado slot depending on the saw blade orientation with each other. There is not indication on the cut where the blades come together, and the top of the cut is absolutely flat. They outperform by regular multi-blade dado set by far. However, they only cut the two sizes, so they are not going to be your go-to blades for all your dado needs. OUCH!! Hint: Wear gloves when handling these blades. They have SHARP edges just EVERYWHERE! I got the blood off of them before they started to rust and I WILL wear Kevlar shop gloves next time I install them on my saw!

I was doubtful that a blade costing less than half its competitors could be good. The consistently positive reviews convinced me to try it. This blade is a treat. I used it with a high school robotics team to cut aluminum plate and square section tube with 0.125in wall thickness. We made more than 100 cuts. I kept the blade lubricated (started with a liquid lubricant - messy- and switched to wax) and didn't force it, just let the blade do the work. The cuts were easy, clean, and smooth. I did use good practice to clamp each piece to the miter saw before cutting, not using hands to hold the workpiece. We didn't lose a single tooth and plan to use the same blade in the coming year.

This blade makes very very smooth cuts in hardwood, softwood, and plywood, using my Harbor Freight/Chicago Electric 10" compound sliding miter saw. This saw is a bit underpowered compared to most, at only 11A. There's just a very tiny bit of splintering on the bottom and back edges, but no chipping at all. The cuts are as smooth as if sanded, as smooth as S4S finished lumber. The blade definitely runs quieter than the blade which came with the saw. And, despite having 20 more teeth, it cuts through thick material better and faster than the stock blade did, especially 4x4s.

It was extremely difficult to find a reasonably priced blade with the negative hook appropriate to a sliding compound miter saw, and they are rare at any price. I really didn't want to spend over $50, being as this is only a $100 saw! I would have preferred to spend only $25-30, but negative hooks could not be found in that range. I also went with this blade because of the full width kerf, which supposedly helps prevent blade deflection, especially on a SCMS. Some say a thin kerf makes better use of a lower powered saw, but the thick doesn't seem to be a problem for my use. Most of the blades made for SCMS, ie negative hook, are thin kerf.

I highly recommend this blade! I cut a fair amount of plywood, so the extra money seemed justified, and as I said, I could not find a negative hook blade for any less. I just wish I could get it for as little money as the Oshlun positive hook 10" blades! I'd happily settle for 60-tooth blade if it were $20 less.

I have an old 8" table saw, and NOBODY stocks, or even sells- that size, I shopped around to all the hardware and hardware box/super stores, (you know the twi I mean), and even Grainger could not get them!
When I went online, this was the only company that had 8" blades at a decent price, I found a couple others at 2 to 3 times the cost.
It cuts great, enough so that I got a 7.5" blade for my circular saw!

I admit...I haven't used this yet. I bought it based on reviews from several woodworking friends and decided on this set rather than cheaper dado versions. I've been a woodworker for decades and used the old wobble dado version by Craftsman and wanted something that was easier to fine tune the width. This has it! The blades are plenty substantial, very heavy, with a variety of thinner spacers to fine tune the dado width. I'm looking forward to using this and can tell it's going to be perfect for my dado needs.

Cuts through metal like butter! I installed this blade on my Evolution Rage2 saw and it works flawlessly. Having recently upgraded to the Rage2 from an abrasive saw (NEVER again) the difference is amazing. No abrasive/metal dust everywhere, you get small metal shavings, but they are much easier to clean up and next to no sparks. The cut is smooth, clean, and accurate. No dross to clean up like with the abrasive saw.

Be mindful though that you rate of cut and amount of downward pressure must be carefully monitored. You should apply steady, LIGHT pressure, and let the blade do it's work. If you push too hard/fast you'll kill the blade. I expect this blade to last quite a while before needing to be resharpened ($20 at local shop). HIGHLY recommended!!!

I was searching for a cheap blade for my Makita battery saw when I found this one that fits the Festool. Turns out to be perfect for the job. Not only does the blade cut just fine, but I hooked up the cyclone dust collection / vacuum and didn't have to breathe cement dust. Cutting the fiber cement didn't really do anything bad to the saw like I thought it might. Good blade but even better if you have the stuff to suck up the dust.

I bought this blade for my Stihl TS 420 block saw. Although I'm sure the manufacturer would call it ill advised to say the least, I've shoved this blade into wood with embedded steel plates and bands, rocks, dirt, you name it. If your segmented concrete blade or disc shouldn't be used to cut it, then this is the answer. If you have a demo saw/block saw, this blade is the necessary third for a complete collection, for with all three there is virtually nothing you can not cut. Be forewarned, this blade is not for the meek. It is not like a chainsaw. It makes a chain and bar seem like kid stuff. Sawzall for pre-school girls. This will grab ahold of and rip apart virtually anything it comes in contact with, and isn't so forgiving like the discs and segmented concrete blades. With that said, it is way easier to use than you might expect. Look closely and you will see the carbide tips are set at a slightly negative angle, so it doesn't rip the saw out of your hands as easily as you might expect. DEFINITELY have the full blade guard properly installed and angled to protect from the shrapnel, and be wearing proper leg, hand and eye protection because this thing removes serious chunks of whatever is unfortunate enough to come in contact with it. I've put alot of miles on mine already, and it is fine. I can tell it isn't as fast as it was new, but for what i've done to it, it is impressive. I highly recommend this blade for commercial applications by qualified operators. You will not be disappointed. I would caution DIY folks to be sure you are competent to safely operate such an aggressive machine and blade combination, and that such an extreme setup is necessary. It is neat, and it is kinda fun, but definitely not a toy.

Worked perfect for cutting a corian countertop to remove a dual bowl sink and install a stainless steel one. Worked well bht I could tell by the end of the cut it was tired. Great blade for the purpose and it worked well with the harbor freight Bauer brand 4.5 circular saw to do the job. For Corian it worked perfectly

This is the third dado set I've bought over the years. The Freud that I'd used for well over five years needed replacing.

I bought the Oshlun after thinking about it for a while. I liked the Oshlun full-blade inner cutters. My previous versions had vane cutters on the inside with two carbide chipper points separated by 180°. Aligning the Freud stack required an inner chipper arrangement from experience to preclude nick-cuts and occasionally reshuffling the inside blade saw spindle balance. No knock on Freud ... the dado was worked hard and lasted a long time.

My first project for this Oshlun was on 14 4x6" half-lap joints. The Oshlun dado is noticeably heavier - more blade, more carbide tips. Noticeably tighter tolerances on the saws 5/8ths shaft. The tighter tolerancing extends to flatness. The blades arrive lightly oiled and oddly joined with a tight vacuum weld between the uber-flat blades.

The dado cut at max thickness was like a hot knife through warm butter.

Much better than expected. It's the best dado set I've owned.

Just received this blade yesterday, and I put it to work cutting 45 deg angles to make Aluminum Window Screen frames. This blade is sturdy and strong, no wobbling on my cheap Delta Miter saw, and it cut through the aluminum frame like cutting through cheese. I did use a little bit of lub, i.e. WD-40, as the directions on the carton stated, but I do not think that I needed to do so. Prior to purchasing this blade, I had used the abrasive style blade to cut through the aluminum frame and the cut quality was a disaster, and not the quality that I will install on the front of my house. So I looked up the various blades that were available for cutting aluminum, and I found this one with great reviews. I went ahead and purchased it to try it out. Great value and great performance. Although there is another Oshlun blade available to cut aluminum with 60 teeth, but I opted to buy the 100 teeth blade which makes it much easier to cut through aluminum, and the blade will last a lot longer. I am glad I bought it.

Great metal cutting blade. I use it with my Milwaukee M18 metal circular saw. Fits perfect, stays sharp for a while..

Very nicely machined. It moves and holds its position very nicely. Easy to read dial; easy to read numbers. The fractional numbering on the outside of the dial, which makes the fractions easier to see. The decimal scale on the inside of dial is more natural to look at and the smaller size is not a problem to read. Other more expensive fractional calipers I have seen are much harder to read. Very nice for the price.

They have performed well when cutting very hard alloy roofing sheets, however, they do not last long on hard alloy. On soft metal I would expect them to last much longer.

I got this to cut damaged engineering wood flooring. The flooring is over concrete so I didn't want to chance the expensive Festool blade. So glad I made the purchase, the cuts were just about perfect. After I was done, I was able to use this to break down plywood sheets. Not as good as the Festool blade, but I can buy 3 of these for the same price.

Bought this to cut some 8020 stock to size on my saw and it went thru it like a warm knife thru butter. The cut that was left was a nice clean cut and I plan to use it for some more aluminum 8020 that I am using to build a Taig lathe stand for.
Pat

I bought this blade for my Stihl TS 420 block saw. Although I'm sure the manufacturer would call it ill advised to say the least, I've shoved this blade into wood with embedded steel plates and bands, rocks, dirt, you name it. If your segmented concrete blade or disc shouldn't be used to cut it, then this is the answer. If you have a demo saw/block saw, this blade is the necessary third for a complete collection, for with all three there is virtually nothing you can not cut. Be forewarned, this blade is not for the meek. It is not like a chainsaw. It makes a chain and bar seem like kid stuff. Sawzall for pre-school girls. This will grab ahold of and rip apart virtually anything it comes in contact with, and isn't so forgiving like the discs and segmented concrete blades. With that said, it is way easier to use than you might expect. Look closely and you will see the carbide tips are set at a slightly negative angle, so it doesn't rip the saw out of your hands as easily as you might expect. DEFINITELY have the full blade guard properly installed and angled to protect from the shrapnel, and be wearing proper leg, hand and eye protection because this thing removes serious chunks of whatever is unfortunate enough to come in contact with it. I've put alot of miles on mine already, and it is fine. I can tell it isn't as fast as it was new, but for what i've done to it, it is impressive. I highly recommend this blade for commercial applications by qualified operators. You will not be disappointed. I would caution DIY folks to be sure you are competent to safely operate such an aggressive machine and blade combination, and that such an extreme setup is necessary. It is neat, and it is kinda fun, but definitely not a toy.

I was skeptical about this laser especially when it arrived and I seen it was used with the package cut open and taped back together.
And I seen the other reviews about it being too thick and having to use washers to space out the guide. Witch I did not have to do.
I didn't have to modify anything at all. Just removed the stock washer/spacer that goes against the blade and put the laser in its place. The laser is thicker though by about a 1/8" at the most and closer to a 16th but it did not interfere with anything on my 12" double bevel saw, DWS779
If the speed of the saw drops as in cutting through something thick the laser starts to cut out from not spinning fast enough but your already past the point of needing it by that time
The thing I was interested in the most was how it lined up with the actual cut line but it does perfectly as it lines up exactly where it cuts to the point that after the cut it barely can be seen on the board again and goes down in the cut path.
I just wish I would have bought it long ago lol
It came with 3 watch batteries already in it and 3 spares (LR44) and I've only used it a couple days so far so I don't know how long they last yet
So there you go and now you know

I'm a big Festool fan. Well, I should say that I really like the Festool products that I currently own. I've owned a few green tools that....well.....sucked. The track saw is one of my favorites. Yeah, it's a little underpowered when cutting bevels but I rarely use it to make these cuts. One thing, IMO, that Festool doesn't do well is make blades. I've owned a couple of the Kapex saws and the blades provided are pretty sad. The fact that they provide a 60T blade with a $1400 miter saw is ridiculous. Do they really think someone is using this saw for something other than finish trim??? Sure it has a negative hook but still.... Back to the Oshlun blade. It cuts great. Super clean cross cuts and plenty fast when ripping 3/4 ply. I highly recommend this blade and will be purchasing another. I purchased the 80T for my Kapex and it's a great blade as well.

I use this blade on a chop saw to cut wooden timbers imbedded with dirt, sand and occasional metal. I does a very good job. It won't stay sharp forever but I have had it resharpened and it works like new again. The person who sharpened it said I could probably have it sharpened 4 or 5 times more. It does the job I want it to. I don't recommend an inexperienced operator use it in this manner. You really have to know what you are doing to avoid pinching of the blade etc. I actually bought another one to use while the other is being sharpened.

I've been using these for over a year nearly every day. Great product for price, I use it for woodworking and general measurements, so up to 64th (128ths if you read between the lines) and hundredths of an inch is perfect. The mechanism works really well so if I need to adjust it by as little as a thousand the of an inch I can and it won't scoot over or under.

Feels really well made, even after a year none of the components have any signs of damage or rust and no threads have been stripped by careless over tightening, which has happened on more expensive calipers than these. It's also fairly easy to disassemble and remove the dust that builds up, the only real complaint I have is the foam in the case started to separate, fortunately a little glue fixed it.

However, If you're doing machining work I would recommend something g that reads thousands of an inch, I have a more expensive calipers I keep exclusively for machining, but this is my favorite one, I am not scared if it drops, or someone steals it at a job sight as I can easily afford another.

I just received this today and I put it on my 12" miter saw to use the saw as a chop saw. I cut a piece of 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" 6061 aluminum. It cut that piece like it was hot butter. I used the Olsun blade lubricant before I did the cutting. No effort at all.
My next cut will be on a 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" of the same metal. If it cuts the same way, this blade is worth twice the price.

I needed to cut many aluminum cleats that were 34" down to 29.75" to fit on the back of the cabinets. I bought a DeWalt Atomic 4 1/2" saw during Xmas, and this blade was all I could find that would fit the saw. So I bolted this up and made my cuts with ease. Being too lazy to change blades, I use this blade to cut the wood rail buffers, and it cut the wood as good as the wood blade. After making about 20 cuts, the blade showed no signs of wear or loss of cutting power. The blade is very quick in speed and easy to control. Sure beat using a hack saw like I did last time. Kind of pricey, but time was not on my side. I searched all over the internet and Home Depot, but they only offered 7"+ blades.

This is an interesting story. I had an aluminum decorative fence to install in my backyard and went to Lowe's and Home Depot to find a non-ferrous blade. Neither had one in stock, so I turned to their web pages. In both cases, navigating their web pages was so laborious, I gave up. I figured there was no way that Amazon would have the blade, but I gave them a shot anyway. To my surprise, they had it! If I were Lowe's and Home Depot, I'd be very embarrassed.

Anyway, the blade has worked great. I have made over 100 cuts with it so far and it doesn't seem to be getting dull. Not only that, the blade cuts through aluminum cleanly and smoothly like a hot knife through butter. I really couldn't be more satisfied with my purchase.

My husband wanted an 80 tooth blade but as I kept searching for similar items the 120 tooth showed up and was significantly cheaper. I know cheap doesn't mean better but it has worked out great. What used to take 20 minutes of cutting with an 80 tooth blade took 5 minutes with a 120 tooth blade.

If this saw blade cuts steel like my Oshlun aluminum cutting blade cuts aluminum, it will also be a winner. I haven't gotten to use it yet, but when I am through with a rush project I am currently working on, I will try it out on some steel shapes that I have in the garage. The unique tooth configuration should allow my 18 volt Firestorm Laser saw to cut steel effortlessly, and with carbide teeth it should last a long time. Stay tuned....

I bought these blades for my TS55. They were $15 each (now $48) and still WAY cheaper then festool blades. I have not noticed any difference in the quality of the cuts. I will buy more if the price comes down again... but for now I have a mini stockpile in the garage.

Other blade replacements I have found have a kerf to thin to clear the Dewalt tracksaw's riving knife. This Oshlun blade's kerf is wide enough to clear the knife and the resulting cut is excellent. It could use a bit more rake (tooth angle) to make the cut a bit easier, but overal this blade is a good replacement.

I need to cut aluminum frequently but also hate changing blades on my miter saw because it takes 35 minutes to remove all the safety gizmos before spending 10 seconds changing the blade. Using the wrong blade on a 10" saw can be VERY dangerous, and some blades made for metal pretty much burn their way through wood. With this blade, I get great cuts on aluminum, as expected. I can also cut most other materials just as clean as with other blades, just slightly slower. I'd much rather cut a piece of wood in two seconds instead of one second rather than changing blades twice.

Metal blades can be very specific, even if they look basically the same. Don't use this for steel. I have one of their steel blades, and it's also good. Similarly, if you need to cut stainless steel, buy a blade for that. It might seem like a lot of trouble and money to have so many blades, but they exist for a reason. If you're not a pro, a good blade will likely last a lifetime, or at least until you buy that CO2 laser you've always wanted.

Cuts through metal like butter! I installed this blade on my Evolution Rage2 saw and it works flawlessly. Having recently upgraded to the Rage2 from an abrasive saw (NEVER again) the difference is amazing. No abrasive/metal dust everywhere, you get small metal shavings, but they are much easier to clean up and next to no sparks. The cut is smooth, clean, and accurate. No dross to clean up like with the abrasive saw.

Be mindful though that you rate of cut and amount of downward pressure must be carefully monitored. You should apply steady, LIGHT pressure, and let the blade do it's work. If you push too hard/fast you'll kill the blade. I expect this blade to last quite a while before needing to be resharpened ($20 at local shop). HIGHLY recommended!!!

Quite impressed with the quality, durability, and value of this blade. I only used it to cut up to 2" x 2" square aluminum tubing and am pleased. It still seems to cut fine after dozens of cuts. That said I highly recommend this blade

I bought this blade with the intent of using it when I refinish my hardwood floors. I figured a $20 blade would be a lot easier to swallow if I hit something hard while cutting out some of the old damaged boards.

I did some test cuts on 3/4" birch plywood scraps. The cuts were clean and sharp. To be honest, I'm not sure that the festool blade could have done any better. Maybe the Festool blade would outperform this blade on other materials but for sheet goods I would consider them equal.

I'll be ordering a couple more blades. At this price I would be crazy if I didn't.

In addition to cutting sheet plastics, this blade cuts styrofoam sheets, leaving smooth edges and minimal "saw dust". I cut 1-inch and 2-inch thick sheets of styrofoam with excellent results. If you want to cut styrofoam with straight line rips, miters, etc. and have a table saw, this blade is the ticket.

I came across this looking for a replacement laser for my 12” kobalt compound sliding miter saw. The laser has sucked on that saw since day 1 and finally took a poop. Bought this to just have some kind of guide to see where I’m cutting/ setting angles and what not. But wow i am super pleased. It is very accurate and marks right on the side of the blade. It is awesome and the best part is there’s no adjusting. The only bad thing, is the laser will only work on the left side of your blade. Or whatever side your blade Mount screw is on. I highly recommend the laser though! And even comes with a whole set of extra batteries. Straight up rip open the package and mount it, then begin cutting!

Never using a stacked dado set before, I relied mostly on the reviews of the people here on Amazon (as I do for most of my purchases). Professional reviews from magazines or websites are nice, but I find that it's better to hear the feedback from actual Average Joe users. That said, it was a difficult decision choosing between the Oshlun and Freud sets, but after reading the reviews, I decided to spend a little less and go for the Oshlun set.

A big thing I keep reading in the reviews is how people feel the supplied box is just god awful and deduct a point or two for it. First off, I didn't spend $65 (6-inch set) for a cardboard box, I spent that much on the product inside. With that being said, and considering what people were saying about the box, I was really expecting something with a thickness less than a cereal box to be what held the dado set, but to my surprise, the box is actually very sturdy. It's also really nice that individual styrofoam cutouts were made to separate the saw blades so that they don't contact each other and chip the carbide tips. I plan on using the box as a long term storage piece for the time being until a time comes when I may need to build a wooden case for the set, but even then I'll use the original foam inserts for extra protection.

Aside from that, the blades cut a very smooth and flat bottom with very little chipout on the ends. The scoring was a little bit deeper than I had thought it would be initially, but it's not enough for me to worry about or deduct stars for. It hasn't done anything to lessen the quality of glue ups in my cuts, but if it had there's still 220 grit sandpaper to smooth it out in a few strokes.

Overall I am very pleased with this set. I've found it incredibly easy to change the setup and the included chart for sizes is really nice as well. I have no regrets about the purchase.

I came across this looking for a replacement laser for my 12” kobalt compound sliding miter saw. The laser has sucked on that saw since day 1 and finally took a poop. Bought this to just have some kind of guide to see where I’m cutting/ setting angles and what not. But wow i am super pleased. It is very accurate and marks right on the side of the blade. It is awesome and the best part is there’s no adjusting. The only bad thing, is the laser will only work on the left side of your blade. Or whatever side your blade Mount screw is on. I highly recommend the laser though! And even comes with a whole set of extra batteries. Straight up rip open the package and mount it, then begin cutting!

Since there aren't many reviews on this blade I figured I'd give it a rating. I bought this to attach to a husqvarna 165rx clearing saw. Having previously used another carbide tipped blade (husqvarna Christmas tree attachment) and after wearing that blade out I was in search of another as rebuilding the blade alone would cost 1.5x the cost of this blade. Sharpen style blades just don't cut it so I figured I'd give this blade a try for what it costs.

I am throughly happy with this blade purchase as it mets my expectations with flying colors. I am mostly using this blade for pasture brush control (hedge, cedar, and locust). Cuts trees like a hot knife easily cutting down a 6" tree, can cut bigger with a back cut but trees get fairly tall with that diameter and could potentially fall towards you without a way to stop it due to having to hold saw. I have not hit any rocks or wire with it yet so I can't tell you how it would hold up to that but I feel like it would. If I happen to hit a rock or wire I'll report back with details if teeth fall off. Eventually I know the blade will get dull, hopefully I will cut enough trees coupled with not having to sharpen it to justify the cost and order another.

There is one thing that I am disappointed with is the blade is manufactured in China. I didn't rate it negatively for this because I feel that if it was a USA made blade it would probably be in the $80 -$100 range.

I would highly recommend this blade for a similar situation as mine. If by rare chance you have a clearing saw with a Christmas tree attachment (used for husqvarna clearing saws and allows use of 12" blade, normally only accepts 10" without attachment) that you want a blade for.

I've tried various brands of steel cutting blades over the years and feel like this is middle of the pack. It's way better than some out there in that the resulting edge is very clean with no burrs and isn't overly sharp. I made a pancake griddle out of 1/4" plate and didn't even have to sand the cut edge. It cuts 1/4" just fine but not quite as quickly as another brand I used before. But at half the price, I will buy these every time.

It cuts smoothly. With all blades there's still a speed of greatest precision. I apply an even pressure and let the blade do the work for the best results.
Aluminum smear deposits on the side of the teeth do not last long. I do not have a clogging problem with this blade as I have with others.
The steel is stiff and the kerf is consistent between different cross-sections and shapes of material. It doesn't wander.
I have cut very thin and small pieces with no biting or throwing of the piece. Other metal blades I've used bit into small, flexible, or poorly clamped pieces.
This is not an expensive blade and delivers excellent performance.

My miter saw is one of my favorite saws. It is so versatile. One thing that I don’t like about it though is it doesn’t have an LED light like some of the newer models do. I tried to find one that works with my saw but there are none. I was watching a woodworking video and the guy doing the video had one of these. So , I decided to buy one.

When I received the package it included the laser guide and three small watch type batteries. When I opened the back of the guide to install the batteries I was pleasantly surprised that batteries were already installed. So the three batteries are extra batteries. That was a nice touch by the manufacturer.

Connect to my saw was very simple. As the blade sounds the laser guide automatically turns on and emits a laser that creates a line on what you are cutting. The cut line matched up perfectly with the laser. One thing I knew ahead of time but not everyone might know before using one of these laser guides is that the saw blade needs to be spinning in order for the guide to work. An LED light always shines and casts a shadow line on the object you are cutting whether the blade is spinning or not. But for this laser guide you need to engage the blade and have it spinning in order for the laser to create a cut line. You can keep the blade high enough and safely out of the way of any adjustments you may need to make to your piece being cut. I usually spin, stop the blade, adjust, spin the blade again and repeat the process if necessary until its is exactly where yo want it to be. I know my saw well enough that I usually put the piece of wood down in the right spot or close to it most of the time and just need to spin the blade once to make some minor adjustments.

I don’t have the money yet to buy a fancier saw with an LED light so until that happens I’m gong to keep using this laser guide as it works well.

I bought this blade to use in my Harbor Freight 14" chop saw. One feature of this blade was its rated rpm were higher than the Harbor Freight saw spins at. The 10" blade limits the amount of material the saw can cut since it's expecting to have a 14" diameter blade, but for straight cuts it's no problem. for 45° angle cuts it's more limited.

I have made about 40 cuts through 1x1x1/8 and 1¼ x 1¼ x ⅛ box section, some cuts through 2 x 2 x 3/16 angle and 4 x ¼ flat steel, and the blade is still cutting pretty well - and a definite time saver over using a hand hacksaw!!