Oshlun Professional Grade Saw Blades

Bought this blade for cutting 1/4" black ABS. I'm using it with a Sears Craftsman 10" Table saw and it cuts flawlessly. Nice clean cuts no filing needed. That's all I've got to say. I'm going to see if they make a smaller size for my circular saw.

What no one adresses in any reveiws for a beam saw is the fact that many saws are underpowered for blades this size.

The Oshlun blade performs well as ripping or cross-cut blade. I performed many full depth rips w/ the blade in reclaimed cedar beams. All things considered it performed like a champ. I wish the saw had more power (older style Makita beam saw) I was concerned the blade may pinch o rjam and cause a nasty kick back, or worse yet get too hot and start to wobble / wander. None of the above happened. I'm a carpenter by trade, this is my first time w/ a beam saw, so take it for what its worth - Good price and fast shipping.

I use this blade on a chop saw to cut wooden timbers imbedded with dirt, sand and occasional metal. I does a very good job. It won't stay sharp forever but I have had it resharpened and it works like new again. The person who sharpened it said I could probably have it sharpened 4 or 5 times more. It does the job I want it to. I don't recommend an inexperienced operator use it in this manner. You really have to know what you are doing to avoid pinching of the blade etc. I actually bought another one to use while the other is being sharpened.

This dado set was on my Christmas list - and Santa delivered! I researched quite a bit and narrowed it down the the entry level Orange, Freud, and the Oshlun. The Oshlun won out primarily due to the low price point. Many woodworking forums indicated the quality was comparable to the more costly competition. I'm not a tool snob and don't really care if my tools are made in Asia, Germany, or on the moon, as long as they last and function as intended. I've used the blade several times now, cutting 3/4 slots with and against the grain in softwood. So far I'm impressed. I haven't used the competition, so I can't comment on how it compares. I have a large saw with a powerful 240v motor, so I can't comment on how practical this dado would be in a small table saw.

Pros: High tooth count, decent manual, smooth cut, flat bottom (see note about edge scoring) and big chippers

Con: Box - many dados come in a box that doubles as a storage case, not this one. The cardboard and foam is adequate for shipping, but not suitable for storing.

Would I recommend this to a friend? Yes

Note: All dados claim to leave a flat bottom. That does not mean that the entire bottom of the cut is actually flat. It does mean that the bottom will be flat except for a fine score at each edge of the cut. Each edge of the cut will leave a very fine score line to minimize tear out. If the cut is just one pass, the bottom looks perfectly flat, the score lines are quite a non-issue and difficult to see. However, if used in multiple passes to remove larger amounts of material, such as in making tenons or larger slots, the outside edges of each cut will leave a fine line that is easily seen. Don't confuse "flat bottom" advertising to indicate a true flat bottom and smooth cut. A truly flat bottom cut would likely come with a bit of tear out. If you absolutely must have a true flat bottom, stick to a router.

Bought the 30 tooth for thicker ferrous metals and 50 tooth for thinner ferrous and both cut great for there specific intention. Bought 5 3/8" size and used on my M18 Milwaukee metal saw. No complaints other then wish they made it in a
5 1/2" or 5 7/8" so that I can fully cut through a bundle of light gauge 1 5/8" studs in one shot as the blade wears down. They do sell the 5 7/8" for thicker ferrous metal but not ideal for light gauge studs because leaves thicker burrs and not as clean cut.

I have gotten about 50 cuts out of this blade so far. Most of them have been 45 degree cuts in 1x2x3/16" mild steel channel. It is now only starting to spark a bit, but still cutting straight lines.

So I "ran over " a steel bench dog with my Festool blade... Boo hoo my bad. There goes $80. Lesson learned, I'll buy a replacement. Here's an alternative... Hmm $24 for a similar tooth blade? Why not give it a try? Well glad I did! Great cut in 12mm birch plywood. Nary a scratch on the edge and splinter free--just like the $80 Festool blade! Now to stay away from those bench dogs... HIGHLY RECOMMENDED BLADE!

This type of laser is the best thing you can add to your miter saw if you want some type of aid to show where the blade on the saw will cut. People argue that the shadow line devices are the best- I have both and think this laser is superior. This device puts a line on the material exactly where the blade will cut on the left side of the blade- where 99% of your cuts are made. The line is bright and super sharp- it diminishes in sunlight but you can see it. The shadow line is good, but for it to be accurate you have to bring the blade down to the material. If you don’t, the line is wider than the cut. Also, in sunlight you can’t use it. I like this tool so much more I added it to a saw with the shadow line. Buy it, put it on, use it! It’s as easy as that.

I have no idea why anyone would pay more than you would pay for this set. I had this exact set for years, it cuts very smooth bottom dados. I really like the full size chippers, and I’ve always been able to get the exact width that I need. I really don’t know why anyone would pay $100 more or $150 more just to cut smooth dados, I’m not thinking that the carbide tip blades in the $250 sets are going to last one minute longer than the carbide tips in this set. Due to circumstances beyond my control, I had to buy a new set, I did look around before purchasing this brand, and found no reason to buy anything different. Get it and you’ll be happy with it.

I have had an old Makita Beam saw for years and years....this is the best blade I have used....Now it is also the first carbide tipped blade, but it sure works well. I am sawing PT fir lumber for retaining wall lagging; lots of it.....I am happy.

I admit...I haven't used this yet. I bought it based on reviews from several woodworking friends and decided on this set rather than cheaper dado versions. I've been a woodworker for decades and used the old wobble dado version by Craftsman and wanted something that was easier to fine tune the width. This has it! The blades are plenty substantial, very heavy, with a variety of thinner spacers to fine tune the dado width. I'm looking forward to using this and can tell it's going to be perfect for my dado needs.

I was looking for a reasonably priced full-kerf blade for my 12" miter saw. I had been having issues with a big-name HATB thin-kerf blade deflecting, causing inaccuracies and in some cases actually grabbing the work. After checking out several alternatives I settled on the Oshlun as a kind of low-cost experiment mainly to see if a thicker blade would solve my problem. This one has a .134" kerf with a thick plate and no noticable runout. The results have been stunning. Besides the fact that the blade seems to cut truer with almost no drag, the cuts are clean both on top and bottom sides! We'll see if that keeps up as the blade wears but I have been delighted so far. My blade has C-3 carbide. I think the blade now comes in C-4, which would probably last longer. One thing to look out for is that the mass of this blade is greater than most, which will cause it to coast longer when shut down or put more strain on your blade brake if you have one. Oshlun has won my loyalty with a great product at a great price.

I was hesitant to buy this blade since there were no reviews to vouch for its quality.I am a professional trim carpenter and needed a blade that could last and cut cleanly.I decided to take a chance rather than spend three times more $ on the festool brand or one of the other alternatives out there.I have been extremely impressed with this blade and have found the blade indistinguishable from the festool in use and in long life between sharpenings.I am buying a couple more since I like to have several blades on hand at all times.

My dewalt track saw was wandering, after aligning the resharpened stock blade perfectly parallel, it was still binding in thick hardwoods. I’m glad I bought this blade instead of throwing my saw in the ocean, because it cuts better than ever. It’s a bit thicker than the stock blade which is a good thing, made a decent clean cut in 1-1/2” thick sycamore with zero burn marks.

I bought this to cut up left over Ipe decking. That stuff is harder than the hub of hell. I am very sure on softwood even 20 years Doug fir it would cut like butter. The Ipe is too dense and the blade need more teeth to cut quickly.

Bosch CM10GD dual-bevel miter saw owner. If you purchase it on AMZ you can get the preinstalled laser guide for $80 more or without. I chose without, and after a year figured I'd spend the $20 on the separate module. This thing is great.

How to install: Seriously takes longer to write it up than do it. Unscrew two screws on the blade guard, unscrew (CLOCKWISE) main blade screw, put on laser, screw back in (COUNTERCLOCKWISE to tighten!) and replace blade guard screws.

MAYBE it took me all of 15 seconds. Maybe.

The laser line is exactly to the left of the kerf. The saw blade is exactly to the right of that line. If you're a half-blind half-fingered woodworker, position the line so it's just left of your offcut... and cut.

Why did I go a year without buying this... do yourself or your loved woodworker one a favor and get one of these. This was easier to install than any of the DIY projects i've done in ten years. I could gush for another hour.