A very good quality substitute at a much better price than the overpriced dremel blades that I was forced to use

Oshlun makes the best saw blades I’ve ever used!!! I use this 60 tooth on my miter saw and get super clean cuts in all kinds of wood! I have an Oshlun 50 tooth blade in my table saw for general cutting work and it handles everything just fine!! Even hen I cut plywood I don’t get much chip out.

This blade was chosen for the lower price, the arbor hole size, and the non ferrous cutting attribute. I was skeptical about quality but willing to chance it. It turns out to be a perfect fit for the Kapex, runs without wobble and cuts oak crown molding cleanly. It hasn't been used to cut aluminum, but should have no trouble since previous carbide blades I've used did it without dulling much.

This blade is a great bang for the buck. It’s well made, has thick C-4 micrograin carbide, expansion slots with copper silencer plugs, and a stiff precision steel body. It’s very capable of glue ready edges right off the saw, and does a good job in many materials…it does everything a dependable general purpose blade should do. […] It clearly outperformed my $60 40T CMT 213.040.10. Hard to go wrong at the price.

I used this blade to cut 1/4" diamond plate. I had about eighty feet in cuts to make. At first the blade cut the metal like butter and the finish edge on the cut was smooth. The finish edge began to deteriorate with use and after cutting about sixty feet of material the cuts began to become very difficult. I tried cleaning off a buildup of aluminum on the teeth but this didn't help and I considered the blade to be worn out. I then lubricated my cuts with cutting oil and I was amazed. The blade began to cut better than my very first dry cut and the finish edge was very smooth. I wish I had lubricated all of my cuts. It would have extended the life of the blade considerably. Be careful and use eye protection because aluminum chips will be flying. I used goggles to ensure that a chip didn't get up behind my safety glasses.

This dado set is very nice. The center blades have four cutting tips which makes for less tear out of the stock and less strain on my direct drive table saw. It makes very clean cuts on soft pine, and effortless clean cuts on hardwood too. Someone mentioned in one review to be careful when handling them and/or use gloves as the blades are very sharp and can easily cut you. That is a true statement. I highly recommend these if you’re a serious and/or experienced woodworker. The quality you get against the value is great.

I was skeptical about this laser especially when it arrived and I seen it was used with the package cut open and taped back together.
And I seen the other reviews about it being too thick and having to use washers to space out the guide. Witch I did not have to do.
I didn't have to modify anything at all. Just removed the stock washer/spacer that goes against the blade and put the laser in its place. The laser is thicker though by about a 1/8" at the most and closer to a 16th but it did not interfere with anything on my 12" double bevel saw, DWS779
If the speed of the saw drops as in cutting through something thick the laser starts to cut out from not spinning fast enough but your already past the point of needing it by that time
The thing I was interested in the most was how it lined up with the actual cut line but it does perfectly as it lines up exactly where it cuts to the point that after the cut it barely can be seen on the board again and goes down in the cut path.
I just wish I would have bought it long ago lol
It came with 3 watch batteries already in it and 3 spares (LR44) and I've only used it a couple days so far so I don't know how long they last yet
So there you go and now you know

I bought the WEN track saw and was fairly impressed overall. The stock blade was horrible. I swapped it with this blade and man what a difference. I broke down a sheet of 3/4" birch and the cuts were very smooth with very little splintering. Very happy with this purchase.

Inherited a radial arm saw. Read the manual and watched the on line vids and got the hell scared out of me and almost put it to the curb as being far too dangerous to use. Turns out, there are specific blades for these saws which minimize the grab of the blade on the wood but are NOT the same blades for for your chop or table saw, even though at first glance they look the same. I initially balked at paying 4-5 times the price of one of those blades for this "right" one, but factored in how versatile the saw could be and the cost of a trip to the local emergency room should the saw sling back on me....and bought one. Smartest decision ive made all month. With the addition of a bushing on the arbor, the blade fit my radial arm saw great and the cuts are smooth. The negative camber design (what sets them apart from other, regular saw blades used on other saws) is what keeps the blade from being too aggressive- essentually keeping it from biting off more than it can chew, and skating up and over the board, or suddenly yanking the board (and potentionally parts of my body) through when ripping. Used this on plywood, mdf, ash and cedar so far, does what it should, I have my fingers and the blade is still sharp.

I've been using these for over a year nearly every day. Great product for price, I use it for woodworking and general measurements, so up to 64th (128ths if you read between the lines) and hundredths of an inch is perfect. The mechanism works really well so if I need to adjust it by as little as a thousand the of an inch I can and it won't scoot over or under.

Feels really well made, even after a year none of the components have any signs of damage or rust and no threads have been stripped by careless over tightening, which has happened on more expensive calipers than these. It's also fairly easy to disassemble and remove the dust that builds up, the only real complaint I have is the foam in the case started to separate, fortunately a little glue fixed it.

However, If you're doing machining work I would recommend something g that reads thousands of an inch, I have a more expensive calipers I keep exclusively for machining, but this is my favorite one, I am not scared if it drops, or someone steals it at a job sight as I can easily afford another.

Great price and seem to last as long as the $8 ea ones from Home Depot and Lowes. Using these on a Porter Cable recip tool.

This is only a short term review as this blade has not seen a lot of use. It is installed in my DeWalt metal cutting saw. Cuts on aluminum tubing, flat bar, and angle are fairly clean and easy, leaving only small bits of scale on the tubing ends. I applied lubricating wax to the blade prior to using it and during the cutting process. There appears to be no aluminum residue build up after doing this.

I have no idea why anyone would pay more than you would pay for this set. I had this exact set for years, it cuts very smooth bottom dados. I really like the full size chippers, and I’ve always been able to get the exact width that I need. I really don’t know why anyone would pay $100 more or $150 more just to cut smooth dados, I’m not thinking that the carbide tip blades in the $250 sets are going to last one minute longer than the carbide tips in this set. Due to circumstances beyond my control, I had to buy a new set, I did look around before purchasing this brand, and found no reason to buy anything different. Get it and you’ll be happy with it.

Have done a lot of wood working projects over the years. Have done carpentry on houses. Have done fiberglass work for boats. This was my first foray into Aluminum/Metal cutting. Purchased a 16' X 16' Mechanical Pergola kit for my home and needed to trim the beams, louvers, posts for the install. Purchased a 12" Compound Miter saw from Northern tool and upgraded the blade to this 120tooth metal cutting blade and OMG it was good! Cut 1000lbs of aluminum and it was cutting just as good on the last cut as the first cut. Well worth the money for the quality of the cutting. Beware though cutting metal is nothing like cutting wood! Clamp everything and be sure to keep the items you R cutting firm otherwise you'll get into trouble. I quickly learned as several items kicked and I broke a 2 teeth from this blade but for the rest of the project it kept cutting like they were not even missing.

With all those teeth is makes very smooth cuts. I'm working with red oak at the moment and this blade is doing exactly what I wanted it to do. The cross cuts are very good and I am very satisfied with the results. I've only had it for a couple weeks and so far it's not lost any teeth yet but I'll be keeping an eye on it.

I have never used a saw blade designed specifically for plastic before so I wasn't sure what to expect but this blade goes through plexiglass like butter. It cuts 1/8" and 1/4" thick sheets leaving a decent edge ready for 220-400 grit sanding. No nicks, cracks, chipping or melting. If you need to cut plastic this blade will do the job.

My husband wanted an 80 tooth blade but as I kept searching for similar items the 120 tooth showed up and was significantly cheaper. I know cheap doesn't mean better but it has worked out great. What used to take 20 minutes of cutting with an 80 tooth blade took 5 minutes with a 120 tooth blade.

I was very pleased to find this product being offered on AMAZON. I received the blades very quickly and at a great price. I was concerned about whether the blades would fit and be of good quality. I found out I had not needed to have worried about either account.

I bought this blade with the intent of using it when I refinish my hardwood floors. I figured a $20 blade would be a lot easier to swallow if I hit something hard while cutting out some of the old damaged boards.

I did some test cuts on 3/4" birch plywood scraps. The cuts were clean and sharp. To be honest, I'm not sure that the festool blade could have done any better. Maybe the Festool blade would outperform this blade on other materials but for sheet goods I would consider them equal.

I'll be ordering a couple more blades. At this price I would be crazy if I didn't.

These Oshlun dado blades are the best that I've ever used. Having more chipper blades on the stacks make for a really nice smooth cut. I really recommend these blades.

I was looking for a bade to cut aluminum for a FIRST robotics team working out of my basement. My initial search through a well known industrial supplier showed blades like this starting at $250. That was pretty much a non-starter. I found this one on Amazon and read the reviews and decided to give it a try. It cuts cleanly, quietly, and quickly. We have been cutting parts for several weeks now and the blade shows no signs of dulling. It also works great on PVC pipe and wood (we used that for training purposes. I have done a lot of shop work over the years and I can say this is an excellent blade. I highly recommend this to anyone who is planning to cut aluminum on conventional shop equipment. I used this blade on a table saw.

This is a great blade. I’m using it on a radial arm saw. Cuts are clean and accurate. The negative hook gives me much greater control when cross cutting with the radial arm saw because the blade isn’t so aggressive while traveling through the wood. When ripping “one by” pieces of pine or plywood I don’t have to push so hard and it allows me to feed the wood through at the optimum rate. It’s much safer than using a blade that’s intended for a table saw.

Cuts great and great durability. Cut 3/16 plate smooth and easily. Compared to the original yellow brand I would say close to equal and good longevity. I use this saw alot so blades are important.

Great blade for the price. They fit my Fein, dewalt perfectly. Very happy and will purchase them again.

Up to this point, I have only used friction and abrasive blades to cut steel. I was skeptical of a blade that looks just like your standard wood blade would work well and could last. But I have been very happy with the speed and smoothness of the cuts, and so far, the blade seems to have remained quite sharp. I've only cut about four 1/2" dia. bolts and a dozen or so 1/2" rebar, so it's still a little early to tell how long it will remain sharp. But it has saved me a lot of time and has kept the metal much cooler than with other blade types. I'm very happy with it so far.

Buzzes right through 1/4 mild steel bar. I've made dozens of cuts and I can't detect any dulling. It does make a mess. Really sharp chips widely scattered. I built a quick sled for my cordless saw. Keeps the cut square and really contains the chips. It probably also keeps the tips from catching in the cut and breaking. Hard to believe it's this quick to cut steel with a saw I already have.

If you're looking for the right blade to cut 8020 aluminium t slot, you can't go wrong with this blade. That's what I bought it for, and it has worked perfectly on my table saw. Just be sure to use some blade butter or some sort of wax or lubricant, and you'll get nice clean burr free cuts. I've used it on the 15 series 1515 and 1530 regular, lite, and ultra-lite profiles without issue.

I have the Makita XSC04Z 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 5-7/8" Metal Cutting Saw. This 5 3/8 blade's cut-depth is more than adequate for my needs. I've been doing 90 and 45-degree cuts (not bevels) through 3 x 3 x 3/8 inch angle iron. So far, about 5 ft of cuts, and the blade is still working fine. This compares very well with the Makita blade that came with my saw - for half the price. I think this Oshlun blade cuts a little faster than the Makita. Definitely recommend.

I was searching for a cheap blade for my Makita battery saw when I found this one that fits the Festool. Turns out to be perfect for the job. Not only does the blade cut just fine, but I hooked up the cyclone dust collection / vacuum and didn't have to breathe cement dust. Cutting the fiber cement didn't really do anything bad to the saw like I thought it might. Good blade but even better if you have the stuff to suck up the dust.

I use this blade on a chop saw to cut wooden timbers imbedded with dirt, sand and occasional metal. I does a very good job. It won't stay sharp forever but I have had it resharpened and it works like new again. The person who sharpened it said I could probably have it sharpened 4 or 5 times more. It does the job I want it to. I don't recommend an inexperienced operator use it in this manner. You really have to know what you are doing to avoid pinching of the blade etc. I actually bought another one to use while the other is being sharpened.

Much nicer cut on plywood than the factory blade. Kerf size seems to be exactly the same so the lasers do not need adjustment between this and the Festool blade. I just got it so time will tell about longevity but as far as I can see at this point, paying more than double for the Festool 80t doesn’t seem to be a wise choice.

I bought this blade as a replacement for my Evolution Tools Fury 3 saw. All I can saw is WOW! This blade cuts 10 times better than the blade that ships with the saw. It cuts faster, cleaner, and far smoother. It's better balanced than the original as well. I will never buy another blade from Evolution Power Tools as long as Olshun makes this blade. Buy one and you'll understand. It's easily worth 3x what it sells for.

Using this on a Makita demo saw. Had a cheaper(McGills Warehouse) blade with 80 teeth on it. The McGills blade heated up and warped the blade plate while cutting so it wasn't much use. Fewer teeth on this blade and the way the carbide attaches(big shoulder on the plate behind the carbide) will make this blade much more durable and usable. Haven't seen any blade deflection yet but there's no wood sap build up on it yet. Cuts fast, doesn't jump or bounce much(use light pressure with the low tooth count as it cuts very aggressively).

They have performed well when cutting very hard alloy roofing sheets, however, they do not last long on hard alloy. On soft metal I would expect them to last much longer.

After ruining countless jigsaw blades cutting aluminum planks for a large porch replacement project, I decided to investigate whether a circular saw approach would be faster and provider cleaner cuts. The porch planks were aluminum extrusions that were one inch thick and 6.5 inches wide. I used this Oshlun blade in a cordless lithium based circular saw from Porter Cable. It worked wonderfully, but must warn the user to wear eye and ear protection. The project moved along at least ten times faster than it would have otherwise.

We have a need to cut through 1/4 inch thick x 8 inch fiberglass. Previously we've used a band saw which is very tedious and difficult to keep to a straight line. We bought this blade to put in our chop saw. It's worked perfectly. We can slice cleanly through the fiberglass sheet in just a few seconds. Obviously it throws out a whole lot more dust than a band saw so protective masks and good ventilation are important.

I bought this blade because of the you tube “project farm” review (Best review channel). Understand only rated for ~1500rpm but installed on chop saw at 3300rpm and cut Aluminum, Raw Hide (Dog), PVC, and wood. Too much risk to cut anything harder but no tooth chips yet. Please take care, where leather wielding apron, face/neck shield, heavy jeans… a carbide tooth coming off at that speed can ‘hurt’ 🙂

This is the best blade I have ever used on my miter saw (Dewalt). This includes the Forrest Woodworker II, various Freud blades, and the original Dewalt. The Forrest cuts very well, as it should for the price, but the edge doesn't last long. I had it sharpened by the factory (about $42), and it cut very well again, but not for long. I use my miter saw for normal woodworking, I don't cut any kind of metals with it. This blade cuts as well and has held it's edge longer than a blade that cost 4 times as much, and it is even cheaper than getting the expensive blade sharpened. I have Oshlun blades on my table saw and radial arm saw as well, they cannot be beaten, especially for the price. I also have their 8" dado set, puts the Freud set to shame for much less expense. I have now ordered extra Oshlun blades for my saws, as I am sure the price will go up when they get more popular.

Great blade for the price. I've been using this daily for over a year, and it still cuts clean and crisp. I make sure to remove any build-up of material behind the teeth, so it doesn't burn the wood, but other than that it's been no trouble at all. Definitely a decent alternative to the Festool blades.

Was looking for a replacement blade about a year ago when my original Makita beam was blade started getting dull. Found the Oshlun blade on Amazon and resisted buying it at first due to the low price. I just ordered my second one after using the first one 6 days a week for 10 months. We cut large Western Red Cedar, cypress, fir and spruce beams all day long with this blade (both rips and cross cuts). This blade has never warped under heating (and we really heat this thing up some days). Good blade at any price.

I was hesitant to buy this blade since there were no reviews to vouch for its quality.I am a professional trim carpenter and needed a blade that could last and cut cleanly.I decided to take a chance rather than spend three times more $ on the festool brand or one of the other alternatives out there.I have been extremely impressed with this blade and have found the blade indistinguishable from the festool in use and in long life between sharpenings.I am buying a couple more since I like to have several blades on hand at all times.

Best blade I have purchased in a long time. Tried a blade made by a different seller on Amazon. Said it was for alum but just loaded up. This blade goes through like butter....will buy again but don't think I can wear this out!

Using this on a Makita demo saw. Had a cheaper(McGills Warehouse) blade with 80 teeth on it. The McGills blade heated up and warped the blade plate while cutting so it wasn't much use. Fewer teeth on this blade and the way the carbide attaches(big shoulder on the plate behind the carbide) will make this blade much more durable and usable. Haven't seen any blade deflection yet but there's no wood sap build up on it yet. Cuts fast, doesn't jump or bounce much(use light pressure with the low tooth count as it cuts very aggressively).

I bought this blade to use in my Harbor Freight 14" chop saw. One feature of this blade was its rated rpm were higher than the Harbor Freight saw spins at. The 10" blade limits the amount of material the saw can cut since it's expecting to have a 14" diameter blade, but for straight cuts it's no problem. for 45° angle cuts it's more limited.

I have made about 40 cuts through 1x1x1/8 and 1¼ x 1¼ x ⅛ box section, some cuts through 2 x 2 x 3/16 angle and 4 x ¼ flat steel, and the blade is still cutting pretty well - and a definite time saver over using a hand hacksaw!!

I bought this blade for my Stihl TS 420 block saw. Although I'm sure the manufacturer would call it ill advised to say the least, I've shoved this blade into wood with embedded steel plates and bands, rocks, dirt, you name it. If your segmented concrete blade or disc shouldn't be used to cut it, then this is the answer. If you have a demo saw/block saw, this blade is the necessary third for a complete collection, for with all three there is virtually nothing you can not cut. Be forewarned, this blade is not for the meek. It is not like a chainsaw. It makes a chain and bar seem like kid stuff. Sawzall for pre-school girls. This will grab ahold of and rip apart virtually anything it comes in contact with, and isn't so forgiving like the discs and segmented concrete blades. With that said, it is way easier to use than you might expect. Look closely and you will see the carbide tips are set at a slightly negative angle, so it doesn't rip the saw out of your hands as easily as you might expect. DEFINITELY have the full blade guard properly installed and angled to protect from the shrapnel, and be wearing proper leg, hand and eye protection because this thing removes serious chunks of whatever is unfortunate enough to come in contact with it. I've put alot of miles on mine already, and it is fine. I can tell it isn't as fast as it was new, but for what i've done to it, it is impressive. I highly recommend this blade for commercial applications by qualified operators. You will not be disappointed. I would caution DIY folks to be sure you are competent to safely operate such an aggressive machine and blade combination, and that such an extreme setup is necessary. It is neat, and it is kinda fun, but definitely not a toy.

I was looking for a reasonably priced full-kerf blade for my 12" miter saw. I had been having issues with a big-name HATB thin-kerf blade deflecting, causing inaccuracies and in some cases actually grabbing the work. After checking out several alternatives I settled on the Oshlun as a kind of low-cost experiment mainly to see if a thicker blade would solve my problem. This one has a .134" kerf with a thick plate and no noticable runout. The results have been stunning. Besides the fact that the blade seems to cut truer with almost no drag, the cuts are clean both on top and bottom sides! We'll see if that keeps up as the blade wears but I have been delighted so far. My blade has C-3 carbide. I think the blade now comes in C-4, which would probably last longer. One thing to look out for is that the mass of this blade is greater than most, which will cause it to coast longer when shut down or put more strain on your blade brake if you have one. Oshlun has won my loyalty with a great product at a great price.

If this saw blade cuts steel like my Oshlun aluminum cutting blade cuts aluminum, it will also be a winner. I haven't gotten to use it yet, but when I am through with a rush project I am currently working on, I will try it out on some steel shapes that I have in the garage. The unique tooth configuration should allow my 18 volt Firestorm Laser saw to cut steel effortlessly, and with carbide teeth it should last a long time. Stay tuned....

Product was shipped and delivered promptly after order was placed.

The blade set I received was in the aluminum case with heavy foam support around perimeter and foam sheets in between all blades. I am a weekend hobby woodworker and never used dado blades before the purchase. These work great for me! All the blades and shims in my set came clearly marked and I found it easy to make slight adjustments and dial in the exact width of cut I needed. I have a 15+ yr old JET JWTS series contractor saw and the blades and shims went on and off my factory 5/8" arbor with no problems. I will say that the shims can be a little tricky as they tend to find their way down into the arbor threads so be careful with that. All the blade teeth were complete and sharp (no nicks or quality issues as some other reviewers have cited). I have used once so far making many dado slots in MDF. The cuts were clean with a smooth, flat bottom. As the manufacturer clearly explains in the included literature the outer blade teeth are angled and slightly deeper intentionally to cut a crisp clean edge and bottom with minimal tearout. The minimal bottom corner groove produced by the outer blade teeth is barely noticeable and not a concern for me. Another positive for me was the full chipper blade design. I was down to this set or the similarly priced set from Freud. I had read a few reviews that indicated the partial chipper blades in the Fred set were not so easy to align and hold in place when installing on the arbor. That was a key factor in my choice of the Oshlun set. I have to say that even with the full chipper blades, aligning multiple blades for wider cuts can be tedious, especially if you need to use a few shims. I am very glad I went with the Oshlun in that regard because I understand now how much more difficult it would likely be with partial blades.

Overall I am 100% happy with my purchase and I highly recommend to anyone considering.

I was doubtful that a blade costing less than half its competitors could be good. The consistently positive reviews convinced me to try it. This blade is a treat. I used it with a high school robotics team to cut aluminum plate and square section tube with 0.125in wall thickness. We made more than 100 cuts. I kept the blade lubricated (started with a liquid lubricant - messy- and switched to wax) and didn't force it, just let the blade do the work. The cuts were easy, clean, and smooth. I did use good practice to clamp each piece to the miter saw before cutting, not using hands to hold the workpiece. We didn't lose a single tooth and plan to use the same blade in the coming year.

Just received this blade yesterday, and I put it to work cutting 45 deg angles to make Aluminum Window Screen frames. This blade is sturdy and strong, no wobbling on my cheap Delta Miter saw, and it cut through the aluminum frame like cutting through cheese. I did use a little bit of lub, i.e. WD-40, as the directions on the carton stated, but I do not think that I needed to do so. Prior to purchasing this blade, I had used the abrasive style blade to cut through the aluminum frame and the cut quality was a disaster, and not the quality that I will install on the front of my house. So I looked up the various blades that were available for cutting aluminum, and I found this one with great reviews. I went ahead and purchased it to try it out. Great value and great performance. Although there is another Oshlun blade available to cut aluminum with 60 teeth, but I opted to buy the 100 teeth blade which makes it much easier to cut through aluminum, and the blade will last a lot longer. I am glad I bought it.

In addition to cutting sheet plastics, this blade cuts styrofoam sheets, leaving smooth edges and minimal "saw dust". I cut 1-inch and 2-inch thick sheets of styrofoam with excellent results. If you want to cut styrofoam with straight line rips, miters, etc. and have a table saw, this blade is the ticket.

My dewalt track saw was wandering, after aligning the resharpened stock blade perfectly parallel, it was still binding in thick hardwoods. I’m glad I bought this blade instead of throwing my saw in the ocean, because it cuts better than ever. It’s a bit thicker than the stock blade which is a good thing, made a decent clean cut in 1-1/2” thick sycamore with zero burn marks.

This is an excellent dado set that produces a true flat bottom dado. The number of chipper blades and shims enable very precise measurements. They are as good as dado sets costing much more.

I bought this blade for my Stihl TS 420 block saw. Although I'm sure the manufacturer would call it ill advised to say the least, I've shoved this blade into wood with embedded steel plates and bands, rocks, dirt, you name it. If your segmented concrete blade or disc shouldn't be used to cut it, then this is the answer. If you have a demo saw/block saw, this blade is the necessary third for a complete collection, for with all three there is virtually nothing you can not cut. Be forewarned, this blade is not for the meek. It is not like a chainsaw. It makes a chain and bar seem like kid stuff. Sawzall for pre-school girls. This will grab ahold of and rip apart virtually anything it comes in contact with, and isn't so forgiving like the discs and segmented concrete blades. With that said, it is way easier to use than you might expect. Look closely and you will see the carbide tips are set at a slightly negative angle, so it doesn't rip the saw out of your hands as easily as you might expect. DEFINITELY have the full blade guard properly installed and angled to protect from the shrapnel, and be wearing proper leg, hand and eye protection because this thing removes serious chunks of whatever is unfortunate enough to come in contact with it. I've put alot of miles on mine already, and it is fine. I can tell it isn't as fast as it was new, but for what i've done to it, it is impressive. I highly recommend this blade for commercial applications by qualified operators. You will not be disappointed. I would caution DIY folks to be sure you are competent to safely operate such an aggressive machine and blade combination, and that such an extreme setup is necessary. It is neat, and it is kinda fun, but definitely not a toy.

This is the third dado set I've bought over the years. The Freud that I'd used for well over five years needed replacing.

I bought the Oshlun after thinking about it for a while. I liked the Oshlun full-blade inner cutters. My previous versions had vane cutters on the inside with two carbide chipper points separated by 180°. Aligning the Freud stack required an inner chipper arrangement from experience to preclude nick-cuts and occasionally reshuffling the inside blade saw spindle balance. No knock on Freud ... the dado was worked hard and lasted a long time.

My first project for this Oshlun was on 14 4x6" half-lap joints. The Oshlun dado is noticeably heavier - more blade, more carbide tips. Noticeably tighter tolerances on the saws 5/8ths shaft. The tighter tolerancing extends to flatness. The blades arrive lightly oiled and oddly joined with a tight vacuum weld between the uber-flat blades.

The dado cut at max thickness was like a hot knife through warm butter.

Much better than expected. It's the best dado set I've owned.

Cuts through metal like butter! I installed this blade on my Evolution Rage2 saw and it works flawlessly. Having recently upgraded to the Rage2 from an abrasive saw (NEVER again) the difference is amazing. No abrasive/metal dust everywhere, you get small metal shavings, but they are much easier to clean up and next to no sparks. The cut is smooth, clean, and accurate. No dross to clean up like with the abrasive saw.

Be mindful though that you rate of cut and amount of downward pressure must be carefully monitored. You should apply steady, LIGHT pressure, and let the blade do it's work. If you push too hard/fast you'll kill the blade. I expect this blade to last quite a while before needing to be resharpened ($20 at local shop). HIGHLY recommended!!!

It's a good value. Of course it's made in China. Be sure to order a lube stick to use with it. If you are cutting thinner material like angle or box tubing, get the 120 Tooth. If you are cutting heavier bar stock, large rounds, get the 80 tooth. I ran the 120 tooth on some 3"x4" 7075 bar stock and it wanted to plug up even with plenty of lube.

This blade was chosen for the lower price, the arbor hole size, and the non ferrous cutting attribute. I was skeptical about quality but willing to chance it. It turns out to be a perfect fit for the Kapex, runs without wobble and cuts oak crown molding cleanly. It hasn't been used to cut aluminum, but should have no trouble since previous carbide blades I've used did it without dulling much.

I was cutting 1:4 inch fiberglass panels and it performed very well cut as expected and was smooth. Checked after cutting and teeth was sharp

Had mine about 3 years now. Use it all the time in my woodshop. Never had any problems with it. Works smooth, zeros in and keeps zero. I have noticed that occasionally the zero is off by a tiny, tiny bit, say half the width of the needle. I read in the company's description above that accuracy is +/- .001, so when I see it off zero, that tiny bit probably is .001. So mine is as accurate as described. The metal is nothing fancy, but it is smooth and machined well. Everything fits well and works. I am an avid woodworker. I use it for thickness planing, some joint work , measure the depth of a hole or groove, width of a groove, inside measurements, etc... The dial is easy to read and is in fractions, which I use. So no math involved. The fraction marks are in 64th's, you can also easily read between the marks to 128th's. If I cut a joint to 128th's of an inch you know it is a very good day in the shop indeed !!! Realistically if you are looking to buy one for very fine tolerances for fitting metal parts together or building machinery then you might want to go way up in price range. It's great for wood, the wood probably will move a 128th mark on a humid day anyway. I prefer a dial then a digital. I've read that a digital can round a measurement up if it falls between digits, that it uses energy when off, so batteries get used up. A dial lets you see the measurement when between digits or markings, so I know if just one more swipe of the plane will put it where I want it. I don't think you can buy more accuracy at this price range. For working wood I don't know why you would need expensive accuracy as the wood will move fine increments across it's grain overnight, just laying in your shop. Many woodworkers work down to a 32th of an inch in accuracy. So to be able to see a 128th is very close measuring for woodwork.

Used this for a framing job where my old Makita blade had suffered a lot of "tooth decay" and was having serious trouble doing long rip cuts. This blade did those long rip cuts like slicing through soft butter, with nary a whine or a chatter. And crosscuts were a breeze. Obviously it too will eventually wear out, but it has been well worth the money. Recommended.

This blade is incredible. I just finished cutting plywood parts for two large roll around cabinets and the blade made laser smooth cuts. Just remember that when cutting expensive veneered plywood to raise your blade to its highest setting. This trick provides the least amount of tear out. I know this goes against what many of us were taught about safety and it does expose more blade. But if you are thoughtful and keep your hands in the clear the cutting result will be worth the extra effort. If your not comfortable raising the blade use tape on your cut line. Either way, this blade is worth the price and makes clean cuts.

After reading the great reviews, I had to get it when I saw it on sale. This is a steal at the sale price and worth every penny at the regular price. It cuts perfect joints with flat bottoms. I should have bought them sooner.

This dado set was on my Christmas list - and Santa delivered! I researched quite a bit and narrowed it down the the entry level Orange, Freud, and the Oshlun. The Oshlun won out primarily due to the low price point. Many woodworking forums indicated the quality was comparable to the more costly competition. I'm not a tool snob and don't really care if my tools are made in Asia, Germany, or on the moon, as long as they last and function as intended. I've used the blade several times now, cutting 3/4 slots with and against the grain in softwood. So far I'm impressed. I haven't used the competition, so I can't comment on how it compares. I have a large saw with a powerful 240v motor, so I can't comment on how practical this dado would be in a small table saw.

Pros: High tooth count, decent manual, smooth cut, flat bottom (see note about edge scoring) and big chippers

Con: Box - many dados come in a box that doubles as a storage case, not this one. The cardboard and foam is adequate for shipping, but not suitable for storing.

Would I recommend this to a friend? Yes

Note: All dados claim to leave a flat bottom. That does not mean that the entire bottom of the cut is actually flat. It does mean that the bottom will be flat except for a fine score at each edge of the cut. Each edge of the cut will leave a very fine score line to minimize tear out. If the cut is just one pass, the bottom looks perfectly flat, the score lines are quite a non-issue and difficult to see. However, if used in multiple passes to remove larger amounts of material, such as in making tenons or larger slots, the outside edges of each cut will leave a fine line that is easily seen. Don't confuse "flat bottom" advertising to indicate a true flat bottom and smooth cut. A truly flat bottom cut would likely come with a bit of tear out. If you absolutely must have a true flat bottom, stick to a router.

Theses blades are incredible and when used properly work as good as any fine wood chop or miter saw. I bought one and one of my sub contractors, without permission, use it on a job site and bummed it up, so I bought another. No one get's to use it now that is not trained in it's usage.
Still going strong after several jobs and just as clean a cut as the first.

Our 1 non-ferrous blade cut the 1" and 3/4" thick aluminum shown in the pictures and finished very strong. Excellent cut quality and durability. Yet to sharpen it.

I've owned the 210 x 52 and 210 x 36 tooth (as well as the 72 tooth non-ferrous) blades since 2016 and find them to be excellent blades for the DIY builder. I work with all sorts of materials, from Miratech, to fir and pine, to oak, to Ipe (hard stuff that), to chocolate Bamboo (harder stuff still), to 1" thick aluminum (with the non-ferrous blade).

I just keep the 52 tooth on my TS75 for most work. Though I'm not doing day in day out production work, I have yet to sharpen it and find that it still makes smooth clean cuts.

I used to buy Endurance blades because they lasted the longest. They went up in price so I tried Oshlun. It works just as well or better and lasts as long. I can now buy 2 blades for what I used to spend on one. These types of blades don't last a long time anyway but they will last longer if you keep slow and steady feed rates and don't try to take on too many layers at a time if cutting flat stock. It's easy to chip a tooth on the edges of the steel both starting and finishing a cut. These chips mean that the next tooth in line will be forced to do more work and soon it will fail, and so on.
Remember, slow and steady.