When I initially purchased this blade I wasn't expecting for it to work as well and last as long as it did given the price. We used it to cut a bunch of 3/16" sheet steel and some stainless steel perforated sheet. It's a bit dulled after this project but still has all it's teeth intact and I feel I got good value and service out of it given the price in comparison to some "big name brands".

It's a good value. Of course it's made in China. Be sure to order a lube stick to use with it. If you are cutting thinner material like angle or box tubing, get the 120 Tooth. If you are cutting heavier bar stock, large rounds, get the 80 tooth. I ran the 120 tooth on some 3"x4" 7075 bar stock and it wanted to plug up even with plenty of lube.

We bought this for removing a breezeway between two buildings. We had to cut walls and the shingled roof, and then removed pieces with an excavator. This made the job pretty easy.
This blade is really heavy, and takes a bit ti spin it in the saw, but once it gets going, will cut through anything without issue. Cutting with it is pretty easy, if you can handle the hefty weight, otherwise it's easy to control.
Only downside was that it was definitely getting dull towards the end of the job. We had it sharpened, but haven't used it since, so we'll see if it's still usable or not.

I was doubtful that a blade costing less than half its competitors could be good. The consistently positive reviews convinced me to try it. This blade is a treat. I used it with a high school robotics team to cut aluminum plate and square section tube with 0.125in wall thickness. We made more than 100 cuts. I kept the blade lubricated (started with a liquid lubricant - messy- and switched to wax) and didn't force it, just let the blade do the work. The cuts were easy, clean, and smooth. I did use good practice to clamp each piece to the miter saw before cutting, not using hands to hold the workpiece. We didn't lose a single tooth and plan to use the same blade in the coming year.

I got this to cut damaged engineering wood flooring. The flooring is over concrete so I didn't want to chance the expensive Festool blade. So glad I made the purchase, the cuts were just about perfect. After I was done, I was able to use this to break down plywood sheets. Not as good as the Festool blade, but I can buy 3 of these for the same price.

I have an old 8" table saw, and NOBODY stocks, or even sells- that size, I shopped around to all the hardware and hardware box/super stores, (you know the twi I mean), and even Grainger could not get them!
When I went online, this was the only company that had 8" blades at a decent price, I found a couple others at 2 to 3 times the cost.
It cuts great, enough so that I got a 7.5" blade for my circular saw!

I'm a big Festool fan. Well, I should say that I really like the Festool products that I currently own. I've owned a few green tools that....well.....sucked. The track saw is one of my favorites. Yeah, it's a little underpowered when cutting bevels but I rarely use it to make these cuts. One thing, IMO, that Festool doesn't do well is make blades. I've owned a couple of the Kapex saws and the blades provided are pretty sad. The fact that they provide a 60T blade with a $1400 miter saw is ridiculous. Do they really think someone is using this saw for something other than finish trim??? Sure it has a negative hook but still.... Back to the Oshlun blade. It cuts great. Super clean cross cuts and plenty fast when ripping 3/4 ply. I highly recommend this blade and will be purchasing another. I purchased the 80T for my Kapex and it's a great blade as well.

Yep! This expensive blade cuts through stainless exhaust tube like BUTTER!!! Replaced the garbage cutting blade on my cheapo Harbor Freight chop saw with this bad boy and went from 45 second cuts to 5 second cuts with almost no pressure to cut through!

Nothing like making a cheezy tool work way better than it was ever intended! WIN!!!

Using this on a Makita demo saw. Had a cheaper(McGills Warehouse) blade with 80 teeth on it. The McGills blade heated up and warped the blade plate while cutting so it wasn't much use. Fewer teeth on this blade and the way the carbide attaches(big shoulder on the plate behind the carbide) will make this blade much more durable and usable. Haven't seen any blade deflection yet but there's no wood sap build up on it yet. Cuts fast, doesn't jump or bounce much(use light pressure with the low tooth count as it cuts very aggressively).

We have a need to cut through 1/4 inch thick x 8 inch fiberglass. Previously we've used a band saw which is very tedious and difficult to keep to a straight line. We bought this blade to put in our chop saw. It's worked perfectly. We can slice cleanly through the fiberglass sheet in just a few seconds. Obviously it throws out a whole lot more dust than a band saw so protective masks and good ventilation are important.

Cuts through metal like butter! I installed this blade on my Evolution Rage2 saw and it works flawlessly. Having recently upgraded to the Rage2 from an abrasive saw (NEVER again) the difference is amazing. No abrasive/metal dust everywhere, you get small metal shavings, but they are much easier to clean up and next to no sparks. The cut is smooth, clean, and accurate. No dross to clean up like with the abrasive saw.

Be mindful though that you rate of cut and amount of downward pressure must be carefully monitored. You should apply steady, LIGHT pressure, and let the blade do it's work. If you push too hard/fast you'll kill the blade. I expect this blade to last quite a while before needing to be resharpened ($20 at local shop). HIGHLY recommended!!!

I came across this looking for a replacement laser for my 12” kobalt compound sliding miter saw. The laser has sucked on that saw since day 1 and finally took a poop. Bought this to just have some kind of guide to see where I’m cutting/ setting angles and what not. But wow i am super pleased. It is very accurate and marks right on the side of the blade. It is awesome and the best part is there’s no adjusting. The only bad thing, is the laser will only work on the left side of your blade. Or whatever side your blade Mount screw is on. I highly recommend the laser though! And even comes with a whole set of extra batteries. Straight up rip open the package and mount it, then begin cutting!

These Oshlun dado blades are the best that I've ever used. Having more chipper blades on the stacks make for a really nice smooth cut. I really recommend these blades.

I use this on a SpeedCut Panel saw for ripping/cross-cutting plywood. I just received the blade and have only used it a few times, but it cuts a VERY clean line with minimal tear-out. Great blade for the money. I'll be interested to see how it continues to perform over time.

This blade is incredible. I just finished cutting plywood parts for two large roll around cabinets and the blade made laser smooth cuts. Just remember that when cutting expensive veneered plywood to raise your blade to its highest setting. This trick provides the least amount of tear out. I know this goes against what many of us were taught about safety and it does expose more blade. But if you are thoughtful and keep your hands in the clear the cutting result will be worth the extra effort. If your not comfortable raising the blade use tape on your cut line. Either way, this blade is worth the price and makes clean cuts.

With all those teeth is makes very smooth cuts. I'm working with red oak at the moment and this blade is doing exactly what I wanted it to do. The cross cuts are very good and I am very satisfied with the results. I've only had it for a couple weeks and so far it's not lost any teeth yet but I'll be keeping an eye on it.

This is only a short term review as this blade has not seen a lot of use. It is installed in my DeWalt metal cutting saw. Cuts on aluminum tubing, flat bar, and angle are fairly clean and easy, leaving only small bits of scale on the tubing ends. I applied lubricating wax to the blade prior to using it and during the cutting process. There appears to be no aluminum residue build up after doing this.

Theses blades are incredible and when used properly work as good as any fine wood chop or miter saw. I bought one and one of my sub contractors, without permission, use it on a job site and bummed it up, so I bought another. No one get's to use it now that is not trained in it's usage.
Still going strong after several jobs and just as clean a cut as the first.

These Oshlun blades are great. I bought this one so I will always have one on hand when my Festool blade is being sharpened. The carbides on the Oshlun are larger than the Festool, while all the critical dimensions remain the same. It's the same kerf, rake, diameter and tooth count as the Festool blade and it won't mess with your zero clearance at all because of this. I have a number of these blades for my TS55 and my TS75. I dare say I like the Oshlun blades better due to the larger carbides.

I can not see any difference between my Festool blade and that one. Smooth cut with nice glossy feel to it.

There are a few things out there that are better options than Festool Replacement ones, all of which come at a better value.

Examples include t
1) Splinter Guard tape from Makita for the tracks which are way cheaper and better.
2) Bosh 35mm hose for 30$ ish compared with the 36mm from Festool at ridiculous price.
3) MFT3 MDF top that you can do yourself from any 3/4 MDF sheet.

Im a finish carpenter. I use my table saw a couple days a week. I had this blade on my saw for a little over a year. I figured that out from my order history here on Amazon. That equates to thousands of rips. Oak, mahogany, pine, poplar, mdf, pvc, birch plywood, cdx, doug fir, treated... everything. Ill cut free hand and sometimes put a little pressure on the saw. Maybe cute through a nail by mistake. It never skipped a beat. I took it off today. It wasnt missing a single carbide. There wasnt even a chipped carbide. I didnt take it off because i thought it needed to be changed. I just had a new one so i said what the hell. Anyway. Dont buy a different blade. Buy this one.

I BOUGHT THIS PRODUCT ABOUT A MONTH AGO AFTER SEARCHING THE WEB FOR AN 8 INCH CALIPER; THAT WAS GOOD QUALITY, ACCURATE, AND EASY TO READ. THIS ONE HAS FIT THE BILL SO FAR. I HAVE USED IT TO ALIGN MY TABLE SAW, ROUTER TABLE FENCE, BANDSAW FENCE, MITER SAW ETC. IT IS GREAT. [...] IS EASY TO READ, EASY TO LOCK AND ADJUST, AND THE MATERIALS USED TO MAKE THIS PRODUCT SEEM TO BE EXTREMELY STURDY. NO RUST SO FAR, AND I AM TRULY PLEASED. YOU COULD PAY MORE, BUT FOR 99% OF ALL USES I CAN THINK OF; YOU WOULD BE SPENDING MONEY NEEDLESSLY. IN MY OPINION; THIS ONE IS A WINNER.

I am using this blade on my chop saw to cut 1" biscuits out of hickory logs (I use them in my BBQ pit). This is an aggressive blade and it cuts through the hickory like it's butter. This is NOT the recommended use for the blade but it is the perfect solution for me. I can see how this blade would work well in a rescue operation - something it's actually designed to be used for.

I purchased this to replace my worn-out Irwin in my table saw. For the price, I'm happy with it. It is sharp, doesn't exhibit any vibration, and doesn't ring. I you've used older style solid steel blades, you know what I mean by "ring". One caveat is that if you're looking for a mirror finish cut on your material, or are looking for a blade to run glue joints, I don't think this will be what you're looking for. While the blade is extremely sharp, and tear-out is very very minor to not distant, the cut edge will have a touch of roughness from tooth marks. That said, I've used this with oak, maple, fir, pine, and cabinet-grade plywood with excellent results. When ripping fillers for cabinetry, the quality of the cut is more than acceptable for that type of work. You end up with a tight joint without tear-out or gaps. If the cut will be exposed, you will have to do a little sanding, but that is usually expected anyway. Only the highest quality blades, such a Forrest, will give you a cut that doesn't require very much in the way of hard work. For the price, I'm more than happy with this blade and will most likely purchase more in the future as I need them.

I'm just a hobbyist woodworker, but I prefer quality tools - especially if they aren't too expensive. This dado set fits that description perfectly. Smooth, clean, flat bottom dados with no tear out. My first project with this set was in red oak, and I don't know how the set could have performed any better. Years ago, I bought an adjustable dado set - two blades mounted on a center hub that would let you tilt the blades in or out to change the width of you dado. Total junk. Literally could not make a flat bottom due to the design. Don't know if that type of dado set is still made, but if you see one, avoid it at all costs. I selected this Oshlun set because I thought the full blade multi-tooth chippers and the high tooth count on the outside blades would give a cleaner cut than the sets with fewer teeth and wing chippers with only two teeth. Don't know if that's true, but I am completely happy with the results I got with this Oshlun set. No regrets spending the money at all. The only negative is the advertised storage / carry case is simply a cardboard box with foam cutouts. Still a 5 star product.

I have no idea why anyone would pay more than you would pay for this set. I had this exact set for years, it cuts very smooth bottom dados. I really like the full size chippers, and I’ve always been able to get the exact width that I need. I really don’t know why anyone would pay $100 more or $150 more just to cut smooth dados, I’m not thinking that the carbide tip blades in the $250 sets are going to last one minute longer than the carbide tips in this set. Due to circumstances beyond my control, I had to buy a new set, I did look around before purchasing this brand, and found no reason to buy anything different. Get it and you’ll be happy with it.

I have two sets of calipers: this one and a digital electronic caliper by iGaging that reads in fractions, decimals, and metric. If I really need to dial in a measurement precisely, I use the iGaging. But 98% of the time the Oshlun is my go-to! It's the one I carry with me in my pocket, my tool bag, or even when I go to the store and need to measure a board or a bolt. It's so much easier to intuit the dimension of an object when I'm seeing a visual representation of where that dimension lies on the fractional "clock face." So many times when I use the other one - the digitial one - it will give me an answer of, say, 21/64ths and then I have to stop and spend two minutes doing math in my head and figuring out what that precise number means in practical terms. As a woodworker, I technically work to the nearest 32nd, but I THINK in terms of 16ths and 16ths "strong" or "weak". The Oshlun gives me that knowledge at a glance, without mental math and without hesitation. A machinist may need an instrument that can give them accuracy to the thousands of an inch, but for the work I do, the Oshlun Fractional Dial Caliper is the perfect tool for measuring when I need something more precise than my tape measure, alone. Highly recommended.